BMC dermatologist Lisa Shen’s sunscreen rules of thumb: make sure it’s SPF 30 or higher, blocks both UVA and UVB rays, and gets reapplied at least every two hours (more frequently if you’ve been swimming or sweating). Photo by Wavebreakmedia/iStock

Skincare

Sun Protection Tips for Those with Black and Brown Skin

BMC dermatologist Lisa Shen says just because you have more melanin doesn’t mean you don’t need sunscreen

If there’s anything you should be thinking about during the heat wave that’s been rocking the northern hemisphere—besides staying thoroughly hydrated, of course—it’s sun protection. 

And that goes for all skin tones. Sure, if you’re a person of color, a week of 90-plus degree days might not have you reaching for the SPF 80 like your life depends on it. But you should still be applying broad-spectrum sunscreen—ideally one with an SPF of 30 or higher—to your face and body every two hours, says Lisa Shen, Boston Medical Center associate director of pediatric dermatology and Boston University School of Medicine assistant professor of dermatology. Darker skin tones can still suffer from sun damage, causing hyperpigmentation, age spots, and wrinkles, in addition to sunburns. Plus, people with darker skin are at a higher risk for being diagnosed with later-stage melanoma, which can be fatal when left untreated. 

“Sun exposure can contribute to pigmentation issues,” Shen says. “Patients with darker skin are more likely to experience melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation—those dark marks left behind by acne—and exposure to UV rays can actually make them worse. The best way to prevent that from happening is by protecting the skin from visible light and UV radiation.” 

Um, visible light? Turns out, it’s not just the sun that can damage your skin—even the light emitted by computers, smartphones, and light bulbs can contribute to hyperpigmentation and aging. Sunscreens formulated with titanium dioxide help protect against visible light, Shen says.

The bottom line: sun (and light) damage is cumulative. “You can’t undo your past, but you can certainly try to protect yourself moving forward,” Shen says. “It’s never too early or too late to start wearing sunscreen.” It’s also important to wear it year-round, and not just seasonally, she adds: “I like to joke that it’s called sunscreen, not summer-screen!” 

And don’t just count on the same bottle you’ve been using for years now—sunscreen stops being effective after its expiration date. However, sun protection comes down to more than just wearing sunscreen. Below, Shen offers tips and tricks for protecting Black and brown skin tones from the harmful effects of the sun.

Know your sunscreen and find one that works for you

There are two different types of sunscreens: chemical sunscreens and physical sunscreens. Chemical sunscreens, which are usually more water- and sweat-resistant, work by absorbing UVA and UVB rays into the skin and releasing them back into the atmosphere. The active ingredients in chemical formulas are “all those ones you can’t pronounce,” Shen says, such as avobenzone, oxybenzone, and octinoxate. 

Physical, or mineral, sunscreens, meanwhile, function by physically blocking rays from penetrating skin in the first place. The main ingredients in mineral sunscreens are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which are gentler on pores and overall better for sensitive skin. The downside of mineral formulas is that they can leave a “white cast” on the skin, which is far from ideal for consumers with darker skin.  

Unfortunately, it’s no secret that there’s a dearth of sunscreen formulated specifically for Black and brown skin. In fact, a recent study from Boston Medical Center and BU’s Center for Ethnic Skin found that the lack of tinted sunscreens—which can help alleviate skin conditions that disproportionately affect people of color—available in non-white shades discourages consumers from using them. But that’s not to say sunscreen options don’t exist at all: brands like Black Girl Sunscreen, Fenty Beauty, and Melé specifically make white cast–free formulas for darker skin. 

And back to tinted sunscreen: for people of color with sensitive skin, tinted, noncomedogenic mineral formulas can be a godsend for protecting skin from sun damage (and covering hyperpigmentation) while minimizing breakouts and rashes. Luckily, there are top-quality products out there—look for offerings from brands like Ilia Beauty and bareMinerals when doing your shopping.  

You have more than just sunscreen at your disposal

Does re-slathering yourself with sunscreen every hour feel like a losing game in summer heat? (The sweat! Why?) Remember, you have other tools in your arsenal. Sun hats and UV-protective clothing can both prevent UV rays from harming the skin, and, in some cases, feature breathable fabric that can help keep you cool on muggy days. Pants, rash guards, cover-ups—even your favorite MLB hat—all can mitigate sun damage while cutting down on the grease and inconvenience factors. (“My kids are always the ones in rash guards at the beach!” Shen says.) 

Check your moles for melanoma

Oftentimes, melanoma in people of color isn’t caught until it’s at a later stage. That can be attributed to a host of factors, including the misconception that because dark skin doesn’t burn as easily, people of color can’t get skin cancer, as well as a lack of training for doctors identifying cancerous moles on darker skin. But melanoma can be fatal when left untreated, so it’s important to know the signs.

Many dermatologists recommend getting yearly checks for skin cancer. When it comes to at-home mole checks, Shen recommends following the “ABCDEs”: look for asymmetry, irregular borders, multiple or dark colors, a diameter greater than 6 mm, and evolution in size, shape, and color among any moles you might have. Also, melanomas in darker skin often appear in sun-protected areas like palms and soles, Shen says, so be sure to check yourself all over. If you notice a suspicious spot, book an appointment with a dermatologist immediately. (It’s always good to book one who regularly treats patients of color, if possible.) They’ll decide how frequently you should come back for follow-up checks based on your moles’ appearance and risk factors, such as family history of melanoma.