See more of Coolidge Corner in the slideshow above. Photos by Robin Berghaus. Slideshow by Grace Ko

Ethel Weiss has been ringing up sweets for Brookline children at Irving’s Toy and Card Shop since 1939, but no, she did not wait on young John F. Kennedy, who was born and raised around the corner on Beals Street. “He was gone,” she says, by the time she and her late husband, Irving, opened the store at 371 Harvard St. that year.

But countless other elementary schoolers and sweet-toothies of all ages have passed beneath the red-and-white striped awning—and stepped back in time. The shelves are filled with classic and modern candies to fit almost any allowance, as well as invisible ink books, Mad Libs, hula hoops, lobster claw harmonicas, Lincoln Logs, and board games like Candyland, Uncle Wiggly, and Stratego. “I like simple things,” says Weiss. “No video games, no modern Internet stuff. I don’t encourage battery things.”

Weiss has been immortalized on public wall murals and in the popular Beacon Street Girls book series for girls, where she appears as herself, the kids’ wise counselor. Coolidge Corner has “always been the best place in the world,” she says. “People are lovely. The kids respond. The area is beautiful. It’s level, not hilly. There are nice stores; you can get most everything here. It’s old-fashioned and easy to walk around.”

And no, the corner was not named after President Calvin Coolidge, but rather after 19th-century local businessman David S. Coolidge.

The bakeries, Jewish delis, sushi joints, temples, and cultural touchstones of the bustling Brookline crossroads are an easy walk from campus and an even shorter trolley ride up Beacon Street. Just hop off when you spot the distinctive clock tower on the S. S. Pierce Building, where Beacon meets Harvard Street. Spend a few hours in this Jewish émigré community and you’ll be spouting Russian proverbs and kibitzing. While the cultural mix has grown more diverse in recent years, Weiss says they all have one thing in common: “Everyone who comes to Brookline wants to better themselves.”

Historical

JFK National Historic Site
83 Beals St.

John F. Kennedy was born at number 83 on this tree-lined thoroughfare and lived in the teal three-story home for six years. His mother, Rose Kennedy, later restored the interior to the best of her recollection, donating almost 200 family objects, including the future president’s bassinet and porringer. The site is operated by the National Park Service, which leads tours Wednesdays through Sundays from late May to late October.

Culture and entertainment

The Coolidge Corner Theatre
290 Harvard St.

Brookline’s popular art deco movie house has been entertaining film lovers since 1933 with a mix of first-run and independent productions. Big shots like Meryl Streep, Martin Scorsese, and the late Robert Altman have made panel appearances in recent years. You, too, can feel like a filmmaker when you sink into one of the plush red chairs in the cozy 17-seat screening room. The main hall accommodates 454 and a smaller auditorium seats 217. Readings and special screenings take place regularly, and there’s even a club for the deaf and hard-of-hearing, complete with the latest audio technology. Plus, that’s real butter glistening on the popcorn.

Coolidge Corner Clubhouse
307A-309 Harvard St.

One of the few bars in the neighborhood, this one can get crowded, especially when a game’s on. Known for its heaping plates of nachos, dozens of beers on tap, and 20 LCD hi-def TVs, the CCC, as regulars refer to it, serves a full menu until 1:15 a.m. Test your sports knowledge every Monday at Trivia Night.

Ahla Brookline Food Tour
80 Park St.

Don’t know pirozhki from pilmyeni? Borscht from blintzes? Find out the difference—and more—during a walking tour of the neighborhood’s Russian cuisine. Each Saturday, guides from Ahla Brookline Food Tour lead culinary explorations of the Brookline-Brighton neighborhood, home to a sizable Russian immigrant population, from Soviet Refusniks to post-Communist economic adventurers. In their wake, Russian restaurants and gastronomic shops have sprung up like mushrooms. The three-hour tour, from 2 to 5 p.m., stops at Russian Village, Babushka Deli, Vernissage, the Fireplace, and Athan’s, among other places. Your palette will get better acquainted with blintzes (pancakes stuffed with items from minced pork to jam), Siberian dumplings, caviar, tortes, and oh yeah, vodka. Plus, learn how to use Russian ingredients to stir up your meals at home.

Shopping

Mint Julep
1302 Beacon St.

Started by two Vermont friends, this women’s boutique opened in 2004 and offers a number of American and European clothing and accessories lines covering all price ranges. Whether you’re looking for something to wear to a ball game or a cocktail party, chances are you’ll find it here.

Eureka!
1349 Beacon St.

Impuzzables. Brain Tangles. Nails in a Bucket. Hanukkah Rummy. You name the game, Eureka’s got it. The shelves and cabinets are packed with thousands of jigsaw and mechanical puzzles, card and board games, Sudoku and crosswords, and puzzle jewelry from around the world. Every Tuesday, owner David Leschinsky, who’s played most of the games he stocks, takes his passion to the nearby Courtyard Marriott Hotel for Game Night, drawing upwards of 90 gamers. “We take over the place,” he says.

Brookline Booksmith
279 Harvard St.

One of the Boston area’s best independent bookstores, Brookline Booksmith has been a Coolidge Corner institution since it opened in 1962. The well-stocked shelves, featuring both the latest best sellers and the classics, make it a browser’s delight. The staff is incredibly well-read and knowledgeable. The lower level offers an ample selection of used books and movies. The store hosts readings and book signings by some of America’s most popular authors: Stewart O’Nan, Julia Glass, and Dennis Lehane, to name a few.

Brookline News and Gift Shop
313 Harvard St.

This shop’s windows are stuffed with sun-bleached board games, smokeless ashtrays, trick golf balls, and card shufflers. The front door is plastered with stickers. Inside, the counters are stacked so high you have to guess where the staff is. And be prepared to shimmy sideways when navigating the narrow aisles. It’s a kaleidoscopic experience trying to take in the eclectic wares, from googly eyeglasses and vampire teeth to liquor flasks and action figures. Proprietor Mike Wilner even stores items in the ceiling. But if you’re looking for cigars or pipes, assorted smoking accoutrements, and quirky conversation, you’ve come to the right place.

New England Comics
316 Harvard St.

Hell Boy, Iron Man, and the Dark Knight all began life on the page before becoming blockbuster movies. You can find these comic books and much, much more at New England Comics. A chain of eight stores, its Coolidge Corner location boasts the largest inventory of comics and toys, from Archie to Spiderman. It also offers a wall of graphic novels and trade paperbacks, as well as a large array of independent and small press books to complement its stock of superhero trades from Marvel, DC, Image, and Vertigo. You’ll find sports cards and collectible card games and trading card games like Pokémon, Magic: The Gathering, and Yu-Gi-Oh! The staff is friendly and knowledgeable.

Brookline Farmers Market
Centre Street West parking lot, off Beacon Street

From mid-June through the end of October, this nonprofit farmers market is a fan favorite, featuring a huge selection of local produce (much of it organic), eggs, ice cream, baked goods—even fresh seafood. The market also sells flowers, preserves, honey, turkey, grass-fed beef and lamb, and handicrafts. Stop by every Thursday between 1:30 p.m. and dusk.

Food

Naked Pizza
1331 Beacon St.

Don’t worry parents, this pizza place is PG. Naked Pizza’s goal is to make the healthiest, or as they put it: “pizza with no freaky chemicals.” The menu accommodates vegetarians and meat-lovers alike, offering a wide variety of vegetables and meat, and has gluten-free options as well. Advocating business transparency, they make the pizzas in front of customers, and the website lists nutritional facts for its crusts, cheese, and sauces. If you can’t make it to Coolidge Corner, Naked Pizza delivers too.

Michael’s Deli
256 Harvard St.

Look out for Michael’s small storefront, otherwise you’ll miss this delicious New York–style deli. This hot spot for sandwiches in Coolidge Corner has been awarded by Phantom Gourmet and “Best of Boston.” The Corned Beef Rachel, with Swiss cheese, Russian dressing, and coleslaw on toasted pumpernickel, is a favorite. Although the deli pays homage to New York, it also offers interesting twists on Philly cheesesteak, like the Texan, topped with smoked Gouda cheese and smothered in Sweet Baby Ray’s barbecue sauce.

Berry Freeze
273 Harvard St.

If you’re looking to satisfy your sweet tooth, but want to stay healthy, then you’ve come to the right place. Berry Freeze opened in 2009, its frozen yogurt an alternative to fatty desserts, with flavors including mango, pomegranate, and mocha coffee. If you’re not feeling adventurous, don’t worry; they also have the classic vanilla and chocolate. The important decision, however, is what topping to pick. The choices range from standard fare, such as Oreos and sprinkles, to the unusual, such as mocha (Japanese rice cakes) and kiwi. Berry Freeze also offers smoothies and teas if you need a drink on the go.

Regal Beagle
308 Harvard St.

Winner of Boston magazine’s “Best Brookline Restaurant” in 2010, this pub and bistro somehow remains a hidden gem in Coolidge Corner. The wallpaper and the restaurant’s name—from the pub in the old TV sitcom Three’s Company—are the only retro characteristics of this chic restaurant. Regal Beagle offers an affordable, modern selection of food, including tantalizing options such as dates stuffed with gorgonzola cheese wrapped in bacon ($5) and pan seared scallops with farro, raisins, asparagus, and avocado buerre blanc ($19). The restaurant has a modest wine and beer list and plenty of cocktails—even for brunch.

Bottega Fiorentina
313B Harvard St.

This is where students arriving from Italy gravitate, instead of Warren Towers. “They can’t eat American food,” says owner Andrea Ferrini, a Florentine jeweler-turned-restaurateur. “They have to adjust slowly.” Antipasto, paninis, pumpkin tortellini—it’s all here, and reasonably priced. A long picnic table with an umbrella and red placemats suggests an Italian grotto and fosters communal eating. Hams and spicy salamis fill the deli case, and Italian pastas and sauces, olive oil, biscuits, and bottles of San Pellegrino line the shelves. Try the polpettone (meat loaf laced with prosciutto and porcini mushrooms, served with rosemary potatoes) or the bresaola panini (lean dry-cured beef with roasted peppers, capers, lemon juice, and olive oil). And save room for a warm Nutella calzone, dusted with powdered sugar.

Zaftigs Delicatessen
335 Harvard St.

Your search for the perfect Reuben may well end here. But don’t be surprised that other questers have already found the promised land. Lines out the door of this Brookline institution are common, but it’s worth the wait. The friendly staff keeps things moving and the water glasses filled. Try the Lupo—brisket layered between potato pancakes with vegetable gravy and horseradish—or the grilled cheese made with thick slices of Challah bread. If you’re in the mood for breakfast, the banana stuffed waffles with date butter have been known to rock worlds. Brunch is served all day at Zaftigs (which means “pleasingly plump” in Yiddish). Suggestion: in warm weather (or when facing a long line), order your meal to go and plop down with the other Zaftigs exiles in neighboring Devotion Park.

Kupel’s Bake & Bagel
421 Harvard St.

While an intense debate has swirled for years over the pronunciation of the bakery’s name (long or short “u” in Kupel’s?), many swear the kosher shop offers the most flavorful bagels in Boston. Others rave about the egg salad, the pastries, and the homemade cream cheese. Expect lines during prime chow times. In observance of the Jewish sabbath, Kupel’s closes at sundown Friday and doesn’t reopen until Sunday morning, so stocking up for the weekend is advised.

Seven Subs
One Centre St.

Literally, this is a hole in the wall. The inside is so tight, you’d be hard-pressed to fit a slice of salami between the three or four customers waiting to order. There are a few tables outside, but nasty weather requires a to-go bag. Rain or shine, the squeeze is worth it. When the store opened, it had just seven types of subs. Today, it offers nearly 20 varieties, plus 17 different wraps (including vegetarian and low-fat), numerous salads, and a variety of savory hot dogs. Try the Unforgiven Dog (BBQ sauce and potato salad), the Black and Tan Dog (Russian dressing and BBQ sauce), or customize your frank from a slew of toppings. Yelp’s citizen reviewers give it nothing but love.

Getting there: By foot, head down St. Mary’s Street or St. Paul’s Street from Commonwealth Avenue to Beacon Street, and turn right. The walk takes 15 to 25 minutes. By T, walk to the St. Mary’s trolley stop on Beacon Street and take the outbound Green Line C trolley four stops to Coolidge.

View Coolidge Corner in a larger map

Click on the points in the map above for more information on the places listed in our guide to the Coolidge Corner area.

Learn more about neighborhoods around Boston here. Check out our list of things to do in the Coolidge Corner area on Foursquare.

John Fichera can be reached at jfichera@bu.edu.

This story was originally published on July 16, 2008, and has been updated to list new places of interest and reflect current information about the locations mentioned.