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April 28, 2008

Getting to Know Your Neighborhood: Davis Square

A guide to eating, shopping, and hanging out in one of the 10 hippest places in America

By Caleb Daniloff. Photos by Robin Berghaus


Some residents trace the transformation of Davis Square to a 1997 Utne Reader article that anointed the west Somerville stomping ground as one of the 10 hippest places in America. Others go back further, to the opening of the Red Line T station in 1984. (Sticklers might flip all the way to 1850, when wealthy grain dealer Preston Davis first strode into town and threw up an estate near the intersection of Elm and Grove.) No matter where on the timeline your finger stops, it is undeniable that Davis Square — fed by five well-traveled asphalt tributaries — has grown into a crackling ball of artistic, entrepreneurial, and culinary energy. Whether that’s a good thing depends on who you ask (common complaints: “Parking is disgusting,” “Too many restaurants”). But with a rich blend of mom-and-pops, hip eateries, quirky shops, public art, and a pulsating nightlife, Davis has become a destination — for tourists, students from nearby Tufts University and other schools, and greater Boston residents. The following offers but a smattering of places to check out.

Rosebud Diner
381 Summer St.
One of the few diners that offers griddle fare and a fully stocked bar. But don’t mistake the mimosas and bloody Mary specials for a license to linger. “No newspapers, no doing the crossword,” says a veteran waitress. “You eat and you’re out.” But the WWII-era train-car eatery — listed on the National Register of Historic Places — is cozy, the service quick, and the food tasty and cheap. Lines out the door are not unusual. If you come alone, don’t even think of taking a booth. You will be chided, then seated at the counter. The diner’s hours are Sunday to Thursday, 8 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 8 a.m. to midnight.

Diesel Café
257 Elm St.
The seating at Diesel Café goes back as far as the eye can see, and then some. Leather chairs and couches, booths, wide countertops — even a large kitchen-style island in the back corner — suggest a warm place to pop the laptop or crack a paperback over a cup of Direct Trade joe. Along with funky artwork and old-school board games, Diesel offers a large selection of loose teas, baked goods, and sandwiches of the vegan, vegetarian, and carnivorous variety. The staff is friendly (they even hook up the local Starbucks with coffee filters when they run out), and some will draw flowers in the foam on your latte. Break a few racks on the red-felt pool tables or get cozy with a friend in the vintage photo booth. The garage-door-style front rolls up in good weather to let in the sidewalk vibe. WiFi is available, but at $4.95 an hour or $7.95 a day.

Redbones Barbecue
55 Chester St.
BBQ, beers, and bikes — that about sums up the Redbones creed. Let one of the bicycle valets park your ride (free year-round service no matter your destination) and then gorge on catfish or all-you-can-eat ribs, corn fritters, and hush puppies. Wash it all down with one of 24 beers on tap, many from local microbreweries, or an iced tea from a large sweat-beaded mason jar. The Southern back-home feel is enhanced by photos of barbecue glory days and autographed pics of R&B greats. Counter seats at the open kitchen offer a front-row view of the pitmaster’s crew in action, or gnosh at the bar adjoining the dining room. Head downstairs to Underbones for a darker tavern version of upstairs. Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. (noon on Sundays), dinner from 4 to 10:30 p.m. (11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday). Late-night menu available until 12:30 a.m. Sunday brunch comes with a helping of live bluegrass music.

Sacco’s Bowl Haven
45 Day St.
Step into the clattering cavern of Sacco’s Bowl Haven and step back in time. The candlepins are reset by button and the scores kept in pencil. The Pepsi and snack machines look wildly anachronistic amid the old-school ball returns, original maple lanes, and sepia-toned photos of Sacco’s early days. Some of the benches still sport cigarette burns. Co-owner Damon Sacco’s great-grandfather opened the alley in 1939. The old man also helped design the candle-shaped pin itself, Sacco says, pointing to a framed blueprint on the wall. In the back room are eight pool tables. Sacco says he may change things soon, perhaps convert some of the space into a restaurant. Until then, palm the undersized balls and stay clear of the foul line. Even for seasoned tenpin bowlers, knocking down them skinny boys ain’t as easy as it looks.

Kickass Cupcakes
378 Highland Ave.
Follow the smell of hot butter down Highland Avenue until you get to number 378. Inside is a cupcake-lover’s paradise. Fresh-baked crowd favorites include Cinnamon Chai Pecan Sticky (spiced-up cupcake covered with gooey caramel pecan topping), the Mojito (rum-soaked cupcake with sugarcane lime frosting and fresh mint), Berry Crumbly (berries and almond crumble topping baked into a cupcake topped with mascarpone and crème fraîche), and the vegan NuttyNana (chocolate banana cupcake with cashew nougat center topped with chocolate ganache and cashews). And for the true sinner: Deep Fried Cupcakes (cream stuffed vanilla cupcake dipped in sweet batter, deep fried to order, and drizzled with chocolate syrup) — but like all sins, there’s a price: $4 a pop. Kickass opened only last September, but is already expanding into the neighboring digs, where it will launch a dairy bar with farm fresh milk, cream, cheeses, and ice cream.

Magpie
416 Highland Ave.
The kitschy crafts and jewelry shop is owned and operated by five local artists. Their funky inventory features the work of more than 150 area artisans, much of it eco-friendly and made from recycled materials: skeleton-key and domino-tile necklaces, old-sweaters-turned-stuffed-animals, bicycle chain bottle openers and sculpture, handmade greeting cards, picture frames, birdhouses, fridge magnets — the list goes on. The Boston Phoenix recently double-tapped Magpie as Boston’s best nongallery art space and jewelry store.

Somerville Theatre
55 Davis Square
Beer and wine. Real butter on your popcorn. Cheap tickets. Balcony seating. What more could you ask from a movie theater? Built in 1914 (stage and screen legend Tallulah Bankhead was once a member of the Somerville Theatre Players), the theater offers five screens of second-run films. Matinee tickets dip as low as $5 and are no more than $8 on holidays and weekends ($7 during the week). The venerable venue also pulls in such musical acts as Joe Jackson, Bruce Cockburn, and They Might Be Giants. And plays host to the wildly popular Independent Film Festival of Boston — a week of indie narratives and quirky docs, plus giveaways, IFF merch, and cast Q&As (Sir Ben Kingsley showed up for the premiere).

Johnny D’s Uptown Restaurant & Music Club
17 Holland St.
Johnny D’s is a Boston institution, run by the DeLellis family since the late ’60s. The establishment recently lost popular owner and barroom fixture Tina DeLellis, whose obit, tacked up out front along with an envelope for remembrances, adds to the neighborhood feel of the place. Daughter Carla DeLellis has taken over now. The Monday night trivia has become legendary, but people show up for the music. The Dixie Chicks, Alison Krauss, Emmylou Harris, and Wilco have all played here. “On any given night you may see Cajun fiddle masters from Louisiana, British folk stars, or some of Boston’s finest rockers,” according to the club’s Web site. The restaurant serves dinner and weekend jazz brunch, featuring new American cuisine and vegetarian items. Dairy comes from farms that pledge not to use synthetic bovine growth hormone and the beef from free-range cattle.

Sligo Pub
237 Elm St.
The Burren
247 Elm St.
If you’re looking for something more down and dirty, sidle into Sligo, self-described as the “last dive bar in Somerville.” It’s cramped and smelly, with drinks on the cheap. At least that’s how some regulars affectionately paint the dim watering hole. And a couple of doors up, the Burren offers traditional Irish music seven nights a week.

Davis Square happenings: more reasons to visit

6th Annual Independent Film Festival of Boston. Ends April 29. Somerville Theatre, Brattle Theatre, Cambridge, and Coolidge Corner Theatre, Brookline.
• Somerville Open Studios. May 3-4. All across Somerville, including Davis Square. Download map here.
12th Annual Bike to Work Week Party. Ends May 12. Redbones Barbecue, 55 Chester St. Cosponsored by Alternative Needs Transportation.
Davis Square Somerville Farmers Market. May through November. Corner of Day and Herbert Streets. Local produce, as well as breads, honey, meats, cheeses, herbs, flowers, and chocolate. Performers and cooking demos, too.
• Somerville Arts Council Presents ArtBeat. July 18-19. Davis Square. This year’s theme: Green.
Minuteman Bikeway. Year-round (strap on skis in winter). From Davis Square to Alewife (.8 miles) part of the Somerville Community Path, at Alewife it becomes the Minuteman Bikeway and runs to Bedford, snaking along an old rail bed and past Revolutionary sites.

Getting there: Parking is tight around Davis Square, especially during the evenings and weekends, so driving is not recommended without painkillers or a rabbit’s foot. But the T will drop you smack in the heart of the action: take the Green Line inbound; change at Park Street to the Red Line outbound (Alewife), and get off at Davis Square station. By bus: pick up the 47 bus at the BU Bridge and take to Green and Magazine Streets, hop on the Red Line outbound (Alewife) at Central Square.

Click here to learn about another neighborhood in the area, Cambridge's Central Square.

Caleb Daniloff can be reached at cdanilof@bu.edu.

 

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Comments

Get to Know Your Neighborhood Articles

Would you consider collecting all your Get to Know Your Neighborhood articles in a pdf or other printable form. When we visit our son at BU we enjoy walking around various parts of Boston and having a printed copy of your neighborhood guides would help us select places to visit.

Excellent feature!

I agree. These neighborhood features are awesome. I can't wait to see more. Please do one on the South End for all of us on the Medical Campus!

I LOVE these articles!! Keep

I LOVE these articles!! Keep them coming! Where next?

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