Getting to Know Your Neighborhood: Davis Square

A guide to eating, shopping, and hanging out in one of the 10 hippest places in America

By Caleb Daniloff. Photos by Robin Berghaus. Graphic by Edward A. Brown.

Ron Saccoccio has been cutting the hair of Davis Square residents, denizens, and college students since 1967. Dente’s, his barber shop at 417 Highland Ave. in West Somerville, has been around much longer, since 1912. Saccoccio, who moved from Italy to Massachusetts when he was seven, isn’t related to the original proprietor, but was a good friend of the family and hasn’t changed much about Dente’s over the years. The space is open, the walls mirrored, a row of old-school barber chairs reflects in them, and (of course) a spinning candy stripe pole swirls outside. 

But the view from his large window has transformed.

“Years ago, there was nothing down here,” Saccoccio says. “Little by little, different kinds of stores, coffee shops, restaurants opened up. There are all different people here. Nice people, a lot from Tufts and Harvard. At nighttime, it really comes alive. A lot of bars. After 6 o’clock, it’s like a different place. It gets crazy.”

Saccoccio says there’s not much crime in Davis Square, but homelessness and panhandling are sadly evident, particularly around the subway. He doesn’t have many quibbles with his old stomping grounds (he recently moved to Reading). One thing he’d change: “The parking, it’s bad. It’s 25 cents every 15 minutes. And it’s hard to find a spot.”

Davis Square has become a destination. Some residents trace (or lament) the genesis of that transformation to a 1997 Utne Reader article anointing the square as one of the 10 hippest places in America. Others go back to the opening of the Red Line T station in 1984. Historians might flip all the way to 1850, when wealthy grain dealer Preston Davis first strode into town and threw up an estate near the intersection of Elm and Grove. No matter where on the timeline your finger stops, at present Davis Square — fed by five asphalt tributaries — is a crackling ball of artistic, entrepreneurial, and culinary energy, with a rich blend of mom-and-pops, hip eateries, quirky shops, public art, and a pulsating nightlife.

To get your Davis on, try out some of the following:

Rosebud Diner
381 Summer St.
One of the few diners that offers griddle fare and a fully stocked bar. But don’t mistake the mimosas and bloody Mary specials for a license to linger. “No newspapers, no doing the crossword,” says a veteran waitress. “You eat and you’re out.” But the WWII-era train-car eatery — listed on the National Register of Historic Places — is cozy, the service quick, and the food tasty and cheap. Lines out the door are common. If you come alone, don’t even think of taking a booth; you’ll be chided, then seated at the counter. The diner’s hours are Sunday to Thursday, 8 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 8 a.m. to midnight. And check out the “back room,” the Rosebud Bar and Grill behind the boxcar, for more victuals and potables. Orson Welles look-alikes welcome.

Diesel Café
257 Elm St.
The seating at Diesel Café goes back as far as the eye can see. Leather chairs and couches, booths, wide countertops — even a large kitchen-style island in the back corner — suggest a warm place to pop the laptop or crack a paperback over a cup of direct trade joe. Along with funky artwork and board games, Diesel offers a large selection of loose teas, baked goods, and sandwiches of the vegan, vegetarian, and carnivorous variety. The staff is friendly (they even hook up the competition, Starbucks, with coffee filters when the chain runs out), and some will draw flowers in the foam on your latte. Break a few racks on the red-felt pool tables or get cozy with a friend in the vintage photo booth. The garage-door-style front rolls up in good weather to let in the sidewalk vibe. WiFi is available, at $4.95 an hour or $7.95 a day.

Redbones Barbecue
55 Chester St.
BBQ, beers, and bikes — that about sums up the Redbones creed. Let one of the bicycle valets park your ride (free year-round service no matter your destination) and then gorge on catfish or all-you-can-eat ribs, corn fritters, and hush puppies. Wash it all down with one of 24 beers on tap, many from local microbreweries, or an iced tea from a large sweat-beaded mason jar. The Southern back-home feel is enhanced by photos of barbecue glory days and autographed pics of R&B greats. Counter seats at the open kitchen offer a front-row view of the pitmaster’s crew in action; a nice alternative is to nosh at the bar adjoining the dining room. Head downstairs to Underbones for a darker tavern version. Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. (noon on Sunday), dinner from 4 to 10:30 p.m. (11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday). Late-night menu available until 12:30 a.m. Sunday brunch comes with a helping of live bluegrass music.

Sacco’s Bowl Haven
45 Day St.
Step into the clattering cavern of Sacco’s Bowl Haven and step back in time. The candlepins are reset by button and scores are kept in pencil. The Pepsi and snack machines look wildly anachronistic amid the old-school ball returns, original maple lanes, and sepia-toned photos of Sacco’s early days. Some of the benches still sport cigarette burns. Co-owner Damon Sacco’s great-grandfather opened the alley in 1939. The old man also helped design the candle-shaped pin itself, Sacco says, pointing to a framed blueprint on the wall. In the back room are eight pool tables. Sacco has talked about changing things, perhaps converting some of the space into a restaurant. Until then, stay clear of the foul line.

Dave’s Fresh Pasta 
81 Holland St.
David Jick expanded his pasta, cheese, and wine shop just before the economy went south, and he says it’s been worth it: “Davis Square is awesome. I love Tufts. I love the Red Line. There’s good energy. And to be blunt, there are a lot of people with disposable incomes.”

Jick has added fresh, local produce, beef and fish, and a wine and beer section. Known for handmade pasta, ravioli, and sauces, Dave’s also offers breads and baked goods, and cheeses from Cotswold to goat brie to Reblochon. Munch on a variety of sandwiches, including the Cubano, prosciutto and fig, and after a particularly rough night, the Brazillian Hangover Helper (mortadella, provolone picante, red onion, dill pickle, hot peppers, mayo), which the staff says “works better than anything else.” Indoor and outdoor seating available.

Kickass Cupcakes
378 Highland Ave.
Follow the smell of hot butter down Highland Avenue until you get to number 378. Inside is a cupcake-lover’s paradise. Fresh-baked favorites include Cinnamon Chai Pecan Sticky (spiced-up cupcake covered with gooey caramel pecan topping), the Mojito (rum-soaked cupcake with sugarcane lime frosting and fresh mint), Berry Crumbly (berries and almond crumble topping baked into a cupcake topped with mascarpone and crème fraîche), and the vegan NuttyNana (chocolate banana cupcake with cashew nougat center topped with chocolate ganache and cashews). For the true sinner: Deep Fried Cupcakes (cream stuffed vanilla cupcake dipped in sweet batter, deep fried to order, and drizzled with chocolate syrup). But as with all sins, there’s a price: $4 a pop. 

Magpie
416 Highland Ave.
The kitschy crafts and jewelry shop is owned and operated by five local artists. Their funky inventory features the work of more than 150 area artisans, much of it made from recycled materials: skeleton-key and domino-tile necklaces, old-sweaters-turned-stuffed-animals, bicycle chain bottle openers and sculpture, handmade greeting cards, picture frames, birdhouses, fridge magnets — the list goes on. 

Somerville Theatre
55 Davis Square
Beer and wine. Real butter on your popcorn. Cheap tickets. U2. What more could you ask from a movie theater? Built in 1914 (stage and screen legend Tallulah Bankhead was once a member of the Somerville Theatre Players), the theater offers five screens of second-run films. Matinee tickets dip as low as $5 and are no more than $8 on holidays and weekends ($7 during the week). The venerable venue also pulls in such musical acts as Bruce Springsteen, Joe Jackson, Bruce Cockburn, and They Might Be Giants. U2 played a surprise show and gave a Q&A at the 900-seat venue last winter. The theater also plays host to the Independent Film Festival of Boston [http://www.iffboston.org/] — a week of indie narratives and quirky docs, plus merch and cast Q&As. And while you’re waiting for the show to start, check out the Museum of Bad Art.

Johnny D’s Uptown Restaurant & Music Club
17 Holland St.
Johnny D’s is a Boston institution, run by the DeLellis family since the late ’60s. The establishment last year lost popular owner and barroom fixture Tina DeLellis; daughter Carla DeLellis has taken over. The Monday night trivia has become legendary, but people show up for the music. Rickie Lee Jones, the Dixie Chicks, Emmylou Harris, Irma Thomas, and Wilco have all played here. “On any given night you may see Cajun fiddle masters from Louisiana, British folk stars, or some of Boston’s finest rockers,” according to the club’s Web site. The restaurant serves dinner and a weekend jazz brunch, featuring new American cuisine and vegetarian items.

Sligo Pub
237 Elm St.
The Burren
247 Elm St.
If you’re looking for something more down and dirty, sidle into Sligo, self-described as the “last dive bar in Somerville.” It’s cramped and smelly, with drinks on the cheap. At least that’s how some regulars affectionately paint the dim watering hole. And a couple of doors up, another bar that harkens to the wilder Irish west coast, the Burren, offers traditional Irish music seven nights a week.

Mr. Crepe
51 Davis Square
This crepe-teria offers breakfast and lunch pancake fare, with stuffing from spicy African lamb to salmon to chutney, as well as desserts (can’t beat the Nutella classic). Teas, coffees, soups, salads, ice cream also available. The large glass windows reveal the square’s epicenter, offering prime people-watching. But be careful not to exceed the 30-minute table limit (on weekends and lunch) for non–crepe eaters.

Poor Little Rich Girl
255 Elm St., Somerville
This secondhand clothing store has funky, retro pieces at reasonable prices. Frequent finds include Tahari, Betsey Johnson, and Anthropologie. The large, carefully chosen selection means shoppers won’t feel overwhelmed. Everything is well organized, which can’t be said for all consignment stores. One BU Today staffer found a pair of Cole Haan suede mules in near-perfect condition for a measly $32.

Davis Square Somerville Farmers Market
Corner of Day and Herbert Streets, behind Redbones
Every Wednesday, noon to 6 p.m., May through November. Local produce, as well as baked goods and breads, honey, meats, farmstead cheeses, herbs, flowers, and chocolate. Performers and cooking demos, too.

Somerville Community Path/Minuteman Bikeway
Access behind the Davis T station
Year-round, traffic-free recreation (strap on skis in winter). From Davis Square to Alewife (.8 miles), it’s part of the Somerville Community Path. At Alewife, it becomes the 11-mile Minuteman Bikeway and runs to Bedford, snaking along an old rail bed and past Revolutionary War sites. 

Getting there: Parking is tight around Davis Square, especially during the evenings and weekends, so driving is not recommended without painkillers or a rabbit’s foot. But the T will drop you smack in the heart of the action: take the Green Line inbound; change at Park Street to the Red Line outbound (Alewife), and get off at Davis Square station. By bus: pick up the 47 bus at the BU Bridge and take to Green and Magazine Streets, hop on the Red Line outbound (Alewife) at Central Square.

Click here to learn about other neighborhoods in the area.

Caleb Daniloff can be reached at cdanilof@bu.edu.

• Share it:
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

• Email it:
• 

• Print it:
• 

• RSS Feed
• 

Comments