Getting to Know Your Neighborhood: Coolidge Corner

A guide to eating, shopping, and hanging out in a hip and historic ’hood

By Caleb Daniloff. Photos by Robin Berghaus. Graphic by Edward A. Brown.

Ethel Weiss has been ringing up sweets for Brookline children at Irving’s Toy and Card Shop for 70 years, but no, she did not wait on young John F. Kennedy, who was born and raised around the corner on Beals Street. “He was gone,” she says, by the time she and her late husband, Irving, opened the store at 371 Harvard St. in 1939.

But countless other elementary schoolers and sweet-toothies of all ages have passed beneath the red-and-white striped awning — and stepped back in time. The shelves are filled with classic and modern candies to fit most allowances, as well as invisible ink books, Mad Libs, hula hoops, lobster claw harmonicas, Lincoln Logs, and board games like Candyland, Uncle Wiggly, and Stratego. “I like simple things,” says Weiss, 94. “No video games, no modern Internet stuff. I don’t encourage battery things.”

Weiss has been immortalized on public wall murals and in the popular Beacon Street Girls book series for girls, where she appears as herself, the kids’ wise counselor. Coolidge Corner has “always been the best place in the world,” she says. “People are lovely. The kids respond. The area is beautiful. It’s level, not hilly. There are nice stores; you can get most everything here. It’s old-fashioned and easy to walk around.”

And no, the corner was not named after President Calvin Coolidge, but rather after 19th-century local businessman David S. Coolidge.

The bakeries, Jewish delis, sushi joints, temples, and cultural touchstones of the bustling Brookline crossroads are an easy walk from campus and an even shorter trolley ride up Beacon Street. Just hop off when you spot the distinctive clock tower on the S. S. Pierce Building, where Beacon meets Harvard Street. Spend a few hours in this Jewish émigré community and you’ll be spouting Russian proverbs and kibitzing. While the cultural mix has grown even more diverse in recent years, Weiss says they all have one thing in common: “Everyone who comes to Brookline wants to better themselves.”

Here are a few places to get started:

The Coolidge Corner Theatre
290 Harvard St.
Brookline’s popular art deco movie house has been entertaining film lovers since 1933 with a mix of first-run and independent productions. Big shots like Meryl Streep, Martin Scorsese, and the late Robert Altman have made panel appearances in recent years. You, too, can feel like a filmmaker when you sink into one of the plush red chairs in the cozy 17-seat screening room. The main hall accommodates 454 and a smaller auditorium seats 217. Readings and special screenings take place regularly, and there’s even a club for the deaf and hard-of-hearing, complete with the latest audio technology. Plus, that’s real butter glistening on the popcorn.

Bottega Fiorentina
313B Harvard St.
This is where students arriving from Italy gravitate, instead of Warren Towers. “They can’t eat American food,” says owner Andrea Ferrini, a Florentine jeweler-turned-restaurateur. “They have to adjust slowly.” Antipasto, paninis, pumpkin tortellini — it’s all here, and reasonably priced. A long picnic table with an umbrella and red placemats suggests an Italian grotto and fosters communal eating. Hams and spicy salamis fill the deli case, and Italian pastas and sauces, olive oil, biscuits, and bottles of San Pellegrino line the shelves. Try the polpettone (meat loaf laced with prosciutto and porcini mushrooms, served with rosemary potatoes) or the bresaola panini (leanest dry-cured beef with roasted peppers, capers, lemon juice, and olive oil). And save room for a warm Nutella calzone, dusted with powdered sugar.

Zaftigs Delicatessen
335 Harvard St.
Your search for the perfect Reuben may well end here. But don’t be surprised that other questers have already found the promised land. Lines out the door of this Brookline institution are common, but it’s worth the wait. The friendly staff keeps things moving and the water glasses filled. Try the Lupo — brisket layered between potato pancakes with vegetable gravy and horseradish — or the grilled cheese made with thick slices of Challah bread. If you’re in the mood for breakfast, the banana stuffed waffles with date butter have been known to rock worlds. Brunch is served all day at Zaftigs (which means “pleasingly plump” in Yiddish). Suggestion: in warm weather (or when facing a long line), order your meal to go and plop down with the other Zaftigs exiles in neighboring Devotion Park.

JFK National Historic Site
83 Beals St.
John F. Kennedy was born at number 83 on this tree-lined thoroughfare and lived in the teal three-story home for six years. His mother, Rose Kennedy, later restored the interior to the best of her recollection, donating almost 200 family objects, including the future president’s bassinet and porringer. The site is operated by the National Park Service, which leads tours Wednesdays through Saturdays from late May to late September.

Pho Lemongrass
239 Harvard St.
Pho that’s good enough for Al Gore, as proved by the lobby’s framed photo of the Oscar winner and former vice president with restaurant staff. Vietnamese village scenes decorate the walls of the spacious dining room. Saigon ravioli with hot sauce, lemongrass tofu, sizzling crepes, and black bean salmon are all tasty. The restaurant has a full liquor license and swift service. The Boston Phoenix named Pho Lemongrass the city’s best Vietnamese restaurant in 2008.

Eureka!
1349 Beacon St.
Impuzzables. Brain Tangles. Nails in a Bucket. Hanukkah Rummy. You name the game, Eureka’s got it. The shelves and cabinets are packed with thousands of jigsaw and mechanical puzzles, card and board games, Sudoku and crosswords, and puzzle jewelry from around the world. Every Tuesday, owner David Leschinsky, who’s played most of the games he stocks, takes his passion to the nearby Courtyard Marriott Hotel for Game Night, drawing upwards of 90 gamers. “We take over the place,” he says.

New England Comics
316 Harvard St.
Hell Boy, Iron Man, and The Dark Knight. These blockbuster movies all got their start in comic book joints like New England Comics. One of several in the Boston-area chain, the Coolidge Corner location boasts the largest inventory of comics and toys, from Archie to Spiderman. On top of that, NEC offers a wall of visual novels and trade paperbacks, as well as a large array of independent and small press books to complement its superhero trades from Marvel, DC, Image, and Vertigo. Plus, you’ll find sports cards and collectible card games and trading card games like Pokémon, Magic: The Gathering, and Yu-Gi-Oh! The staff is friendly and knowledgeable.

The Upper Crust
286 Harvard St.
Upper Crust pizza shops are renowned for Neapolitan-style pizza, and the Coolidge Corner location is no exception. The thin-crust pies are made from hand-rolled dough, spread with a chunky sauce, topped with items from traditional pepperoni and mushrooms to the more daring breaded veal, baby clams, and pineapple, all created in an open kitchen. Slices are available, and there is a $2 delivery charge to campus.

Finale
1306 Beacon St.
Ask for a low-fat or sugarless treat at Finale and you’ll be met with a blank look, then laughter. Although dessert-themed, the shop offers light fare during the day and wait service in the evening, with a full liquor license. A large slanted mirror allows patrons to watch chefs plate the desserts. Crowd favorites include molten chocolate cake with Valrhona chocolate, crème broulé, and Boston cream cake. Finale even provides a set of instructions for handling (don’t swing that bag!), storing, and serving take-home orders.

Seven Subs
1 Centre St.
Literally, this is a hole in the wall. The inside is so tight, not even a slice of salami would fit between the three or four customers waiting to order. There are a few tables outside, but nasty weather means a to-go bag. Rain or shine, the squeeze is worth it. The owners started with seven types of subs. Today, they offer almost 20 varieties, plus 15 different wraps (including vegetarian and low-fat), 9 salads, and a variety of savory hot dogs. Try the Unforgiven Dog (BBQ sauce and potato salad), the Black and Tan Dog (Russian dressing and BBQ sauce), or customize your frank from a slew of toppings. Yelp’s citizen reviewers give it nothing but love.

Coolidge Corner Clubhouse
307A-309 Harvard St.
One of the few bars in the neighborhood, this one can get crowded, especially when a game’s on. Known for heaping plates of nachos, 36 beers on tap, and 20 LCD hi-def TVs, the CCC, as regulars refer to it, serves a full menu until 1:15 a.m. Test your sports knowledge every Monday at Trivia Night.

Brookline News and Gift Shop
313 Harvard St.
The shop windows are stuffed with sun-bleached board games, smokeless ashtrays, trick golf balls, and card shufflers. The front door is plastered with stickers. Inside, the counters are stacked so high, you have to guess where the staff is. And be prepared to shimmy sideways when navigating the narrow aisles. It’s a kaleidoscopic experience trying to take in the eclectic wares, from googly eyeglasses and vampire teeth to liquor flasks, action figures, and porn. Proprietor Mike Wilner even stores items in the ceiling. But if you’re looking for cigars or pipes, assorted smoking accoutrements, and quirky conversation, you’ve come to the right place.

Brookline Booksmith
279 Harvard St.
Locally owned since 1962, Brookline Booksmith is another Coolidge Corner institution, and a browser’s delight. The warm wooden floorboards and the chairs are inviting in any season and the staff friendly and well-read. The store is popular among writers, too, regularly drawing big names, from Alice Hoffman to Dennis Lehane (as well as disgraced ones like James Frey). Downstairs offers an ample selection of used books and movies. The store often teams up with the Coolidge Corner Theatre across the street for special events and readings.

Kupel’s Bake & Bagel
421 Harvard St.
While an intense debate has swirled for years over the pronunciation of the bakery’s name (long or short “u” in Kupel’s?), many swear the kosher shop offers the most flavorful bagels in Boston. Others rave about the egg salad, the pastries, and the homemade cream cheese. Expect lines during prime chow times. And remember, the owners observe the Jewish Sabbath, shutting their doors by sundown Friday and reopening Sunday, so stocking up for the weekend is advised.

Crossroads Trade
271 Harvard St.
The items here are made by artisans from Peru, Bolivia, South Africa, and the Middle East: incense, jewelry, baskets made of shredded palm leaves, hand-embroidered photo albums, sand paintings, toys made from plastic salvaged from parade floats, even a raincoat stitched from seal guts. You can feel good about shopping here, too. Crossroads Trade is dedicated to fair trade and the survival of indigenous craft traditions.

Mint Julep
1302 Beacon St.
Started by two Vermont friends, Mint Julep opened in 2004 and offers women’s clothes for any occasion, from a ball game to a cocktail party. Among its offerings, according to the store’s Web site, are “a colorful necklace from local jewelry designer JoJo, a party dress by Tibi, or a signature printed handbag by British designer Orla Kiely.”

Brookline Farmers Market
Centre Street West parking lot, off Beacon Street
From mid-June to the end of October, this nonprofit farmers market is a fan favorite, featuring a huge selection of organic and traditionally produced items, from vegetables, fruits, and herbs to eggs, ice cream, and home-baked pies — even fresh seafood. Add in breads, preserves, honey, turkey, grass-fed beef and lamb, and seasonal fruits. Stop by every Thursday from June 19 until October 30, from 1:30 p.m. until dusk.

Ahla Brookline Food Tour
80 Park St.
Don’t know pirozhki from pilmyeni? Borscht from blintzes? Find out the difference — and more — during a walking tour of Russian cuisine.

Each Saturday, guides from Ahla Brookline Food Tour lead culinary explorations of the Brookline-Brighton neighborhood, home to a sizable Russian immigrant population, from Soviet Refusniks to post-Communist economic adventurers. In their wake, Russian restaurants and gastronomic shops have sprung up like mushrooms. The three-hour tour, from 2 to 5 p.m., stops at Russian Village, Babushka Deli, Vernissage, the Fireplace, and Athan’s, among other places. Your palette will get better acquainted with blintzes (pancakes stuffed with items from minced pork to jam), Siberian dumplings, caviar, tortes, and oh yeah, vodka. Plus, learn how to use Russian ingredients to stir up your meals at home. Ahla also offers a walking tour of Kosher Brookline on Sundays, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2 to 5 p.m.

Getting there: By foot, head down St. Mary’s Street or St. Paul’s Street from Commonwealth Avenue to Beacon Street, and turn right. The walk takes 15 to 25 minutes. By T, walk to the St. Mary’s trolley stop on Beacon Street and take the outbound C trolley four stops to the Coolidge Corner stop.

Caleb Daniloff can be reached at cdanilof@bu.edu. Robin Berghaus can be reached at berghaus@bu.edu. Edward A. Brown can be reached at ebrown@bu.edu.

Learn more about neighborhoods around Boston here.

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