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Getting to Know Your Neighborhood: Kenmore Square and Fenway

More than a bookstore and a red, white, and blue sign

Not so much a square as a confusing convergence of Commonwealth Avenue, Brookline Avenue, and Beacon Street, Kenmore Square has several claims to fame—first may be its six-story Barnes & Noble at BU, the largest bookstore in Boston. Well, perhaps books come second, after the neighborhood’s best-known landmark, the famous Citgo Sign, which hovers near a jewel box of a baseball field called Fenway Park. A beacon to visitors and residents on both sides of the Charles River since 1965, the sign’s original 5 miles of neon tubing was replaced in 2004 by 281,000 red, white, and blue LED lights.

For years, Kenmore Square was little more than a busy doorstep to Fenway Park, which opened in 1912. Prior to the 1960s, it was part of Boston’s Auto Mile, famous for more than 100 automobile dealerships. The 1970s ushered in a new era, when partiers from all over the region thronged to the infamous Rathskeller, a punk-rock venue that helped launch the careers of the Ramones, R.E.M., and the Police, among others.

It was around this time that the dreadlocked Mr. Butch, possibly the city’s most famous homeless man before his death in 2007, moved to the neighborhood. Mr. Butch, whose real name was Harold Madison Jr., gained notoriety for his involvement in Kenmore’s underground rock scene. When he died, 1,000 mourners attended his memorial service.

During the 1980s, Kenmore Square fell into disrepair. By the 1990s, even the Red Sox were threatening to leave. But the 2002 opening of the Hotel Commonwealth, backed by the University, sparked a renaissance, helping transform the neighborhood into a dining and nightlife destination. Kenmore has resurrected—today it is lively, diverse, a mini-hub within the Hub.

Comicopia, 464 Commonwealth Ave.

Comicopia, 464 Commonwealth Ave.

464 Commonwealth Ave.

A mainstay of Kenmore Square for more than two decades, Comicopia stocks several thousand comic books and trade paperbacks, from X-Men to Flash Gordon. New comics arrive every Wednesday, but you can check out the incoming stock online beforehand. The store carries a huge selection of indie and self-published titles, as well as extensive manga and graphic novel collections.

Kenmore Collectibles
466 Commonwealth Ave.

A Kenmore Square landmark since 1988, Kenmore Collectibles specializes in Boston sports memorabilia and vintage coins. This tiny shop boasts a selection of Celtics, Bruins, Red Sox, and New England Patriots collectibles and souvenirs—ideal gifts for the folks back home. Shop at the online store here.

468 Commonwealth Ave.

This casual but chic French restaurant replaced another French eatery, Petit Robert Bistro. First-time restaurateur Samuel Gosselin offers a fresh take on Parisian food with a tantalizing menu of such classics as escargots, charcuterie, and foie gras and such innovative dishes as pan-seared shrimp with truffled leeks and mussels cooked in coconut milk, red curry, and lemongrass. Named after Gosselin’s mother, who lives in Paris, Joséphine offers an excellent selection of French wines. Guests, seated overlooking the open kitchen, can sample the chef’s daily rotating amuse-bouches. There’s also a communal seating area downstairs adjacent to the wine cellar, as well as outdoor sidewalk seating in good weather for those who prefer dining al fresco. The restaurant is open daily for dinner and serves brunch on weekends.

Josephine Restaurant, Kenmore Square

Joséphine, 468 Commonwealth Ave. Photo by Esther Ro (COM’15)

The Lower Depths Tap Room
476 Commonwealth Ave.

This postage stamp–size beer bar promises “a selection of everything for everybody, with the exception of Budweiser,” and with more than 16 rotating drafts and 150 bottles to choose from, it makes good on its promise. The bar often serves limited and rare beers as well, and if you want something they don’t have, ask and they might get it for you. The dinner menu includes beef or veggie hot dogs for just a dollar. The Lower Depths accepts cash only.

India Quality
484 Commonwealth Ave.

Rated Boston’s best Indian restaurant by Zagat for more than a decade now, India Quality is the place to go if you’re craving a warm, spicy curry. With more than 40 entrées, including beef, chicken, lamb, goat, seafood, and vegetarian options, the selection can be overwhelming. If you’re having trouble deciding and are dining with a group, the Dinner for Four option includes a good cross section.

Kenmore Square, India Quality

India Quality, 484 Commonwealth Ave.

486 Commonwealth Ave

Nuggets has been supplying BU students with music since 1978. With more than 10,000 rare and out-of-print titles, this repository of pop culture sells several decades’ worth of tunes, used promo glossies, and old copies of rock magazines, as well as videos and DVDs. Check out the store’s extensive collection of local music, and browse Nuggets’ online collection here. Short on cash? No worries. Customers can buy, sell, and trade.

Island Creek Oyster Bar
500 Commonwealth Ave.

Known for its superb cuisine, innovative décor, and a staff that knows the menu and wine list inside out, Island Creek Oyster Bar serves high-quality seafood and oysters. The raw bar, with an array of some of the freshest oysters to be had anywhere in Boston, is undoubtedly the main attraction. It also offers an innovative cocktail list. Island Creek isn’t cheap, but it’s an excellent place for a celebratory dinner.

The Hawthorne
500A Commonwealth Ave.

Connected to Hotel Commonwealth, this intimate 18-seat bar gives off a homey vibe. Co-owner Jackson Cannon is one of the finest mixologists in the city, so it’s no surprise that the bar was listed on the CNN Eatocracy top 10 picks of new bars in America. Cannon recently streamlined the Hawthorne’s drink menu to feature five to seven rotating specialty cocktails and doubled the bar’s beer selection.

Eastern Standard, 528 Commonwealth Ave.

Eastern Standard, 528 Commonwealth Ave.

Eastern Standard
528 Commonwealth Ave.

Located in the Hotel Commonwealth, Eastern Standard is one of Kenmore Square’s fanciest restaurants. Menu items are pricey and range from braised pork shoulder with steamed clams, kale, and paprika aioli to parsley-crusted whitefish with shellfish stew, lobster oil, and picked herbs. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the roasted bone marrow with fried capers, shallots, and parsley appetizer.

Amsterdam Falafel
642 Beacon St.

Inspired by the falafel shops of Amsterdam, this slowly expanding chain started in Washington, D.C., and now has two Boston-area locations (the other is in Somerville’s Davis Square). The falafel is fried to order and you can customize a sandwich or bowl with a smorgasbord of fresh ingredients—pickled cabbage, yogurt sauce, tahini, fried eggplant, and baba ganoush are just some of the many offerings. Don’t miss the Dutch-style double-fried frieten (aka French fries), with your choice of curried ketchup, peanut sauce, or zesty garlic cream sauce. Space is limited inside, so you may want to grab a falafel for the road.

Hotel Buckminster
645 Beacon St.

Designed by Stanford White, one of America’s most famous architects, the Hotel Buckminster was the largest building in Kenmore Square when it was completed in 1897. Over the years, the hotel has played a notable role in the city’s history. Here the plan to fix the 1919 World Series was hatched, and 10 years later, in 1929, the hotel was the site of the nation’s first network radio broadcast. During World War II, part of the hotel was used to hold Italian prisoners of war. In the 1950s, George Wein (CAS’50, Hon.’15) opened the popular jazz club Storyville in the hotel, where legendary artists like Billie Holiday, Charles Mingus, and Louis Armstrong performed. Today, the hotel bills itself as “Boston’s only true budget hotel.”

Hotel Buckminster, 645 Beacon St.

Hotel Buckminster, 645 Beacon St.

654 Beacon St.

Boston bleeds green, especially on Saint Patrick’s Day, but the city was actually colonized by the English. Even so, British pubs are a rarity around here, which makes Cornwall’s a cherished fixture in Kenmore Square. With its steaming plates of bangers and mash and pints of hard-to-find English ales, Cornwall’s would make any Brit feel at home. It’s the perfect place to grab a glass of London Pride, a game of darts, or a round of Scrabble—the bar stocks a shelf of board games.

Boston Beer Works
61 Brookline Ave.

The brews on tap at Boston Beer Works always flow. This Beantown landmark, just a curveball from Fenway Park, specializes in a changing assortment of 16 beers, including the Boston Red and Bunker Hill Blueberry Ale. You’ll need two hands for the burgers, and the appetizers range from traditional (wings and onion rings) to esoteric (sea scallops wrapped in tasso ham and grilled shark drizzled in blueberry gastrique).

House of Blues
15 Lansdowne St.

The newest addition to Lansdowne Street, the House of Blues officially opened in February 2009, returning to the area after vacating an early incarnation in Cambridge. Formerly home to the dance clubs Axis and Avalon, this 53,000-square-foot concert venue, restaurant, and bar headlines a new musical act nearly every night of the week. Founded in 1992 by Hard Rock Café founder Isaac Tigrett and actor Dan Aykroyd, the chain features blues, some folk, and Southern-inspired cuisine. Check out its concert calendar here.

The Bleacher Bar, 82A Lansdowne St.

The Bleacher Bar, 82A Lansdowne St.

The Bleacher Bar
82A Lansdowne St.

Opened in 2008, the Bleacher Bar lies under Fenway Park’s center field bleachers, a few feet from the Ted Williams Red Seat, which commemorates the Splendid Splinter’s 1946 502-foot home run, the longest ever hit into the Fenway bleachers. Offering a wide variety of local brews on tap and deli classics like roast beef and pastrami, you’ll find something to satisfy your hunger and thirst whilst getting an amazing view of the field—all at a reasonable price. The Bleacher Bar provides patrons with the experience of an All-American pub while steeping them in the history of Fenway Park. It is open off-season as well as when the boys of summer play.

Jillian’s Boston
145 Ipswich St.

Jillian’s Boston, a 70,000-square-foot, three-story entertainment complex, offers billiards in a 35-table pool parlor, an upscale bowling alley, a spring break–themed dance club (Tequila Rain), plasma TVs, five full bars, and two restaurants. Most patrons come for the bowling, but take note: despite 16 lanes, weekend waits have been known to top two hours.

Fenway Park
4 Yawkey Way

Home of the Boston Red Sox, Fenway Park is the oldest, the most famous, and arguably the most interesting baseball stadium in the United States. The park opened on April 20, 1912. With a capacity of just 37,493 spectators, Fenway is one of Major League Baseball’s smallest stadiums. Because of its age and constrained urban location, renovations and additions have resulted in some unique and quirky features, most notably left field’s famous Green Monster—a 37-foot wall that prevents home runs on many line drives that would clear the walls of other ballparks, but turns some pop-ups into game-winners. Fenway Park tours consist of a 60-minute walk around the ballpark, with stops at the Budweiser right field roof deck, the State Street Pavilion, the Green Monster seats, and the press box. Tour schedules and rates vary. For more information, call 617-226-6666.

Red Sox Team Store
19 Yawkey Way

Red Sox Nation fans will find plenty of must-haves at the Red Sox Team Store, right across the street from Fenway Park. What began as a single street cart in 1947 operated by twin bothers Arthur and Henry D’Angelo today is a sprawling 25,000-square-foot store that’s open year-round. You’ll find all manner of Red Sox apparel, as well as commemorative memorabilia, pennants, keychains, glassware, and autographed baseballs. The Fenway Park tours begin and end here, although the store doesn’t run them.

Photo taken from right field at Fenway Park, August 29, 2016, Boston Red Sox vs Tampa Bay Rays

Fenway Park, 4 Yawkey Way. Photo by Irene de la Torre

Sweet Caroline’s
1260 Boylston St.

Named for the Neil Diamond song that has become the anthem of the Red Sox, Sweet Caroline’s reopened this spring under new management and with a totally revamped, inexpensive menu catering to college students and young professionals. The 4,000-square-foot eatery has an extensive beer list and a great outdoor patio. Happily, the new owners retained one of Sweet Caroline’s most popular features: a live version of Fenway Park’s Green Monster, a vine-clad garden with its own beer selection. Try one of the 22 gourmet pizzas, like the Green Monster, a pesto-based pie with roasted garlic and mozzarella, and the signature Sweet Caroline, with fig jam, goat cheese, and prosciutto. Watch a game on one of 11 big-screen TVs, shoot some pool, or play an arcade game while imbibing $3 beers or a $2.50 pint of Miller Lite draft.

1271 Boylston St.

This Japanese-style tavern inside the hip Verb Hotel features a menu by James Beard Award–winning chef Tim Cushman and Nancy Cushman, owners of the popular Japanese eatery O Ya in the Leather District. Diners can enjoy robata-grilled yakitori, sushi, sandwiches, and a selection of shareable dishes and small plates. The chic 100-seat eatery sports a Japan-inspired craft cocktail list, with Tokyo Ta (tequila, long-leaf green tea, Midori, and lemon) and over 20 different sakes.

Tasty Burger
1301 Boylston St.

Tasty Burger is not your average burger joint. Named after a line in the film Pulp Fiction, this edgy restaurant is covered with artwork that pays homage to the movie. With a menu that is easy on the wallet and fast food that leaves your mouth watering for more, Tasty Burger lives up to its name. Most visitors enjoy the Big Kahuna Burger—also a Pulp Fiction reference—and the Spicy Jalapeño. It’s open until 2 a.m. every day, just in case you have a midnight craving for a burger. There’s also a $10 Starvin’ Student special, which includes a burger or cheeseburger, side order of fries, and a can of beer.

Citizen Public House and Oyster Bar
1310 Boylston St.

If you’re in the mood for a unique dining experience, check out the Citizen Public House and Oyster Bar’s family-style pig roast. Available for groups of 10 or more, the meal begins with assorted shellfish and ends with a slow roasted (for 14 hours) whole suckling pig. If pork isn’t your favorite, there are plenty of other options to choose from, including risotto and baked hake, which are available every night until 1 a.m. The tavern also carries more than 200 whiskeys, including a small number of hand-selected single barrels. Whiskey specials of the week are featured as well.

Boston University BU, places to ear near BU campus, sushi Basho Japanese Brasserie, Japanese asian cuisine in Boston

Basho, 1338 Boylston St.

Basho Japanese Brasserie
1338 Boylston St.

In Japanese, basho means “a place where things happen,” and what’s happening at this Kenmore Square eatery is sushi—some of the best to be had in Boston. The menu has plenty of inventive signature rolls, and fresh ingredients are flown in daily. There are a variety of seating options, from communal tables to private dining areas, making it an excellent gathering spot.

Tiger Mama
1363 Boylston St.

The second Fenway neighborhood restaurant from Top Chef finalist Tiffani Faison (she is also chef/owner of Sweet Cheeks), Tiger Mama brings the best of Southeast Asian cuisine to Boston. The 135-seat restaurant opened in 2015 and draws on Thai, Vietnamese, and Malaysian cuisine and offers a range of options, from crispy pork rolls with lettuce, herbs, and sour broth to fried rice with jumbo lump crab, egg, and scallion. Many of the inventive cocktails draw inspiration from Southeast Asia. The tiki drinks are especially popular. Tiger Mama is open nightly for dinner, and is known to get crowded, so reservations are recommended.

Sweet Cheeks
1381 Boylston St.

For a taste of “the American south north of the Mason Dixon,” head over to Sweet Cheeks for some authentic southern barbecue. The menu includes tray deals and features entrées like Berkshire pork belly, natural pulled chicken, and great northern brisket, each served with two sides. Most of the pork, beef, and chicken is all-natural, bought from local farms whenever possible, and all meals (except for the fried chicken) are gluten-free. If the hearty entrées aren’t enough to fill you up, check out the More Sweet, Less Cheek options, a small selection of desserts.

Sweet Cheeks BBQ Boston

Sweet Cheeks, 1381 Boylston St.

Neighborhoods Coffee and Crepes
96 Peterborough St.

This artisan coffee and crepe shop seeks to offer the best and freshest products while connecting communities nearby and abroad. Neighborhoods prides itself on being stewards of the Earth, offering fair trade coffees roasted by George Howell Coffee and Vermont Coffee Company, organic fair trade tea from Numi, and locally sourced ingredients from nearby farms. Furthermore, each month the café features the work of a local entrepreneur, whose products are sold on consignment. Proceeds support the charitable cause or causes that Neighborhoods is supporting at the time.

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum
280 The Fenway

The Isabella Gardner Museum is one of Boston’s most beloved cultural institutions. This replica of a 15th-century Venetian palace contains artwork collected by prominent Boston art collector and philanthropist Isabella Stewart Gardner (1840–1924), who helped design the museum, personally overseeing how the collection was hung. At the center of the four-story palace is a mesmerizing courtyard filled with flowers year-round. The museum’s distinguished collection comprises more than 2,500 paintings, sculptures, tapestries, manuscripts, rare books, and decorative arts, all reflecting the taste of Gardner and her husband, Jack. Among them are works by Titian, Rembrandt, Michelangelo, Raphael, Botticelli, Manet, Degas, Whistler, and Sargent. The Gardner also hosts a highly regarded concert series in the courtyard. The museum made international headlines in 1990 when a pair of thieves masquerading as Boston police officers entered the building and stole 13 works of art, among them priceless works by Vermeer and Rembrandt. The thieves have never been caught and no pieces ever recovered, making it one of the world’s most notorious art heists. In 2012, the museum opened a new $114 million, 70,000-square-foot glass-and-copper addition connected to the Venetian palace. It features a gallery for contemporary art, a visitor center, a state-of-the-art performance hall, a café, a gift shop, and a greenhouse. Admission is free for BU students with a valid ID.

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 25 Evans Way. Putneypics

69 Kilmarnock St.

This dual-concept restaurant, which replaced the former restaurant and music venue Church in May, 2016, offers diners two distinctly different dining options: the expo kitchen, situated in the front, offers a beach-like vibe and serves up wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas and bar snacks. It also features an oyster bar and cocktail bar. In the back, the Club Room offers  a more formal dining experience, replete with fireplace and palm trees. Entrees include a grilled skirt steak, grilled octopus, and crispy trout.  Tapestry is run by husband and wife owners Kevin Walsh and Meghann Ward, both veterans of Boston’s restaurant scene.  There’s also a patio, perfect for dining outdoors during warm weather months.

Museum of Fine Arts
465 Huntington Ave.

With a collection of nearly half a million objects, the Museum of Fine Arts is one of the nation’s largest art institutions. It is also one of the most popular, with more than a million visitors each year. Famed for its French Impressionist and Post-Impressionist collection, with works by Manet, Degas, Renoir, Van Gogh, Monet, and Gauguin, among others, the MFA holds as well an extraordinary collection of Chinese art, Egyptian artifacts, and the largest collection of Japanese art anywhere outside of Japan. The Art of the Americas wing opened in 2010, adding 53 galleries and enough new exhibition space to display over 5,000 American objects, more than double the previous number. It houses the MFA’s extensive American art collection, including numerous works by John Singleton Copley, Gilbert Stuart, John Singer Sargent, and American impressionists Childe Hassam and John Twachtman. MFA admission is free for BU students.

Emerald Necklace

An oasis of green, the Emerald Necklace is a series of nine parks covering 1,100 acres, designed in the late 19th century by one of the nation’s foremost landscape architects, Frederick Law Olmsted, who also designed New York City’s Central Park. Olmsted designed the parks, which are linked by parkways and waterways, to provide a respite from urban living for people of all classes. The necklace begins at the Boston Common, winds through the Back Bay Fens (a former saltwater marsh in the Fenway), and ends at 527-acre Franklin Park, the city’s largest park. The Emerald Necklace has numerous walking trails and bike paths and various events throughout the year. More information and maps are available here.

Getting There

To Kenmore: Take any MBTA Green Line trolley to the Kenmore Square stop or walk down Comm. Ave. To the Fenway: Take an MBTA Green Line D trolley to the Fenway stop. To Fenway Park: Walk down Brookline Avenue from Kenmore Square; the park is on your left. To the Museum of Fine Arts and the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum: Take an MBTA Green Line E trolley to the MFA stop or the #39 bus from Copley Square to the Museum stop.

Learn about other neighborhoods around Boston here. Check out our Kenmore Square and Fenway list on Foursquare for more neighborhood tips.

This story originally ran March 4, 2009; it has been updated to include new locations and current information.