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Getting to Know Your Neighborhood: Brookline Village

Unique shops, great restaurants, and plenty of history

If you build it, they will come. And so they did. Brookline, which was part of the city of Boston until it was independently incorporated in 1705, was first created around the old Town Green. But with the arrival of the Boston & Albany Railroad in 1847, the community’s hub moved to Brookline Village, which has been the town’s civic and commercial center ever since, home to the police and fire stations, public library, and courthouse.

After the Civil War, the commercial area expanded up Washington and Harvard Streets—now considered the heart of the village—where today, shops abut homes, recycling is the norm, higher-than-average property taxes produce excellent schools, overnight street parking is illegal, and family-owned businesses far outnumber chains.

There are exceptions. Starbucks and Dunkin’ Donuts have made their way into the neighborhood, but those in the know walk a few blocks to KooKoo Café, which serves vegan munchies and George Howell coffee. And that’s only one of the local independent stores worth exploring.

Nearby parks

Daniel F. Ford Park and Playground at Emerson Garden
Fronted by Davis Avenue and Emerson Street

This two-acre playground is nestled in a residential area of Brookline Village. Trees shade the perimeter of a large grassy field lined with benches, providing a spot for reading, relaxing, and people-watching. Along with slides, a climbing structure, and a colorful toy ship, the playground has Brookline’s first spray pool, where children can cool down on a hot summer’s day. The nearby park, with walking paths, is dog-friendly, and offers off-leash hours, for a fee, for your canine companions between dawn and 9 am as part of the town’s Green Dog Program.

Linden Park Between Linden Place and Linden Street, Brookline, MA

Linden Park Between Linden Place and Linden Street. Photo by Maddie Malhotra (COM’19)

Linden Park
Between Linden Place and Linden Street

Established in 1843, this quiet park sports just a single play feature: a circular sandbox, about 20 feet in diameter. The park offers passersby a reprieve from Harvard Street’s traffic and a peaceful place to eat take-out from numerous neighboring cafés. A single table sits at the front entrance, and benches are scattered throughout. Near the back entrance is one dedicated to “Alan J. Gagne (1952–2006), Linden Street’s beloved mailman.” Linden Park dates back to 1844 and is listed on the National and State Registers of Historic Places.

Village highlights

KooKoo Café
7 Station St.

Catering to the health-conscious crowd, KooKoo Café offers mainly Middle Eastern–inspired vegetarian and vegan fare. And aptly, owners Ali Mohajerani and Elie Dunford also run Inner Space, a yoga studio just a few doors down. The café, which serves breakfast and lunch, is named after one of its signature dishes, kookoo, a light, fluffy Persian frittata made of eggs, spinach, parsley, and scallions. But according to staff, the most popular menu item is the roasted eggplant sandwich, with garlic, tomato sauce, and Swiss cheese, served on a baguette. The café prides itself on serving quality single-origin terroir coffee roasted by the George Howell Coffee Company, along with a variety of MEM Teas. The family-friendly café offers a nook for kids with tables, chairs, games, and books. Be sure to check out the local pottery and artwork on display from Feet of Clay, a cooperatively run pottery studio that’s also in Brookline Village.

Inner Space
17 Station St.

Skylights allow natural light to pour into the space at this yoga studio, which offers yoga classes for adults (Slow Flow, Iyengar, Gentle, and Vinyasa) as well as for kids and teens. The studio also has Capoeira and karate for children and adults. “We have a strong grassroots community here,” says owner Ali Mohajerani. “People don’t show up here to be seen—it’s a no-hype place to practice.” Learn more about classes here.

Puppet Showplace Theater
32 Station St.

Since 1974, this 95-seat theater has attracted artists from around the world performing marionette, hand, rod, and shadow puppetry. The audience is mainly children (some 20,000 every year), and for many, it’s the first time they’ve seen live theater. Many performances are familiar, such as adaptations of Cinderella and Jack and the Beanstalk. Although mainly for families, school groups, and campers, the theater also hosts programming for adults, like the Puppet Showplace Slam, Boston’s only puppet cabaret. The theater offers a variety of classes and workshops for adults as well as summer camps for youth and children.

Serenade Chocolatier, Brookline, MA

Serenade Chocolatier, 5 Harvard Square. Photo by Maddie Malhotra (COM’19)

Serenade Chocolatier
5 Harvard Square

The chocolatiers here create handmade artisan chocolates, filling molds and operating a tempering machine in an open kitchen behind the counter. Only natural ingredients—including pure butter, cream, fresh-roasted nuts, fruits, and premium European chocolate—are used. A specialty is the hazelnut Viennese, a chocolate cube comprising a single layer of milk and white chocolates wedged between two layers of dark chocolate and infused with hazelnut butter. Novelty items include the chocolate piñata cake, a hollow shell of dark or milk chocolate filled with a variety of artisan chocolates. Each cake comes with a wooden mallet, so it can be smashed and the chocolate treasures released. The store also blends several dark chocolates to make a 72 percent cocoa-rich, dairy-free vegan chocolate. Follow Serenade Chocolatier on Facebook or Twitter for news of special events and free samples.

Matt Murphy’s
14 Harvard St.

An Irish pub without a television seems rare. But at Matt Murphy’s, where the focus is on community rather than cable, soft music is the ambient sound of choice. Try the poutine (house fries and Irish cheese curds in a rich brown gravy) or the shepherd’s pie with braised lamb and roasted root vegetables. Save room for dessert: the bread pudding with sliced pears and caramel sauce is out of this world. Matt Murphy’s is also a popular weekend brunch destination: try the Irish breakfast or the pork hash. Commercial sodas are banned, and its liquors are from Bully Boy Distillers. Note: cash only.

Henry Bear’s Park
19 Harvard St.

This store offers toys and games arranged by age and theme. But it’s not just for kids. Adults will find gems in the age 8-to-12 section, with classic board games such as Scrabble, Apples to Apples, Battleship, and Connect 4. The store hosts free events that include educational games and various craft projects, popular with local families. The name comes from a children’s book by David McPhail, published in 1976—the year the first store opened on Huron Avenue in Cambridge. It now has six locations.

22 Harvard St.

Orinoco’s fare is rooted in traditional Venezuelan cuisine. Chef Carlos Rodríguez, who has taught classes in BU’s Culinary Arts Program, applies nuevo Latino techniques to bring out exotic flavors, an approach exemplified by the restaurant’s asado negro–panela, onion slow-cooked beef roast served au jus with rice and sweet plantains. The restaurant also has a full bar offering specialty cocktails. A delicious brunch is available Sundays as well. Owner Andres Brangér (CAS’84) carefully chose décor and placement to ensure that customers feel at home. One wall is festooned with a pyramid he constructed of pre-1950 black-and-white family photos, topped with a portrait of his mother. The eatery (there are two others, in the South End and Harvard Square) was named Brookline Village’s Best Neighborhood Restaurant by Boston magazine in 2018.

Orinoco, 22 Harvard St.

Orinoco, 22 Harvard St. Photo by Sarah Silbiger (COM’18)

24 Harvard St.

This cozy, intimate restaurant serves up classic Italian fare with an inventive twist in a hospitable, candlelit setting, ideal for date nights and special occasions. The menu is small, but offers a range of dishes that will delight both carnivores and vegetarians. Try the arancini (crispy risotto balls stuffed with fontina cheese, wild mushrooms, and truffle oil) or the burrata (with toasted pine nuts, Ames Farm honey, thyme, and extra virgin olive oil), to start. Then order a flavorful pasta dish, like bucatini and wild mushrooms with goat cheese, cherry tomatoes, fresh thyme, and garlic, an entrée like seared scallops served with mascarpone cheese risotto and crispy shallots, or a classic Caesar salad. Its Sunday brunch is especially popular with local residents. Leave your credit cards home: Pomodoro is cash only.

Martin’s Coffee Shop
35 Harvard St.

This Village mainstay (it’s been in business since 1918) is a favorite with locals for breakfast and lunch. Grab a seat at the counter and enjoy a hearty meal of pancakes, French toast, or create-your-own eggs Benedict. It opens at 7 am (8 am on Sundays) and closes at 3 pm. The lunch menu offers an extensive list of subs, burgers, and classic home-style favorites. The coffee shop is cash only; online ordering is available.

Bottega di Capri Italian Deli
41 Harvard St.

This cozy delicatessen gives Italian eateries in the North End a run for their money. Featuring fresh, affordable homemade pastas and more than a dozen sauces for eat-in or takeout, it’s the place to grab a sandwich for lunch or a prepared meal when you don’t feel like making dinner. The pumpkin tortellini and lobster ravioli are a must, as are the numerous panini and sandwich selections.

Bonnie’s Boutique
43 Harvard St.

Often described as a “miracle worker,” Boonsom “Bonnie” Pasooktham is a trusted and talented seamstress, known for her pleasant demeanor and exceptional customer service. Bring in a dress or suit jacket needing alterations and you’ll get it back on time and on point. No wonder Boston magazine named Bonnie’s Boutique Boston’s Best Tailor in 2014 and 2015. Bonnie is also known for designing beautiful custom-made gowns and other articles of clothing.

Gateway Arts
60-62 Harvard St.

Gateway Arts, a service of the nonprofit Vinfen, is a studio art center dedicated to creating careers in art for people with disabilities. For more than 40 years, the studio spaces, gallery, and storefront have supported artists with developmental and psychiatric disabilities, providing them studio mentorship to help them grow professionally and a neighboring store where they can sell their artwork, which includes paintings, silk scarves, fine jewelry, wooden furniture, cards, hand-woven textiles, and pottery. Gateway also hosts exhibitions throughout the year in its second-floor gallery space. Half of all profits go directly to the artists. The store is open from 11 am to 6 pm weekdays and noon to 5 pm Saturdays, but you can also shop the online store.

Best Burger Bar
195 Washington St.

This burger joint At the corner of Station and Washington Streets, is new to Brookline Village and is “the first of its kind in the country”—a fast-food burger bar featuring burgers made from fully dry-aged beef, paired with a full liquor license and live entertainment. The burgers are developed with an umami flavor and smashed on the griddle to encourage caramelization of the beef. The inventive cocktail menu is courtesy of beverage director Brother Cleve, a Hub legend when it comes to spirits. The bar also serves craft beer. The retro atmosphere and reclaimed wood décor enhance the unique experience you’ll find here. Start with the Best Burger Basic (just lettuce, tomato, and onion) or choose from one of the many specialty offerings, like a brisket hot dog, and for vegetarians, a Portobello sandwich.

Pon Thai Bistro
213 Washington St.

Combining classical training in French cuisine with Thai roots, chef and owner Sivika “Pon” Hunter creates elegant but affordable dishes such as wok-fried spicy basil eggplant and a variety of traditional Thai curries. Pon Thai has a large wine selection to match its diverse menu; the white wines are designed to play off dishes that are heavy on spices and chilies. The menu features what she calls the “trinity of sauces”—fish sauce, oyster sauce, and soy sauce. Among the standouts is the laab duck, an entrée of minced duck, mint, cilantro, scallion, crispy shallot, lemongrass, roasted rice powder, crushed pepper, and tamarind dressing. Visit and you’ll discover why the Boston Globe declared the bistro an “emerging gem” in 2015.

A man assembles a flower arrangement at Finesse Florist, Brookline, MA

Finesse Florist, 221 Washington St. Photo by Sarah Silbiger (COM’18)

Finesse Florist
221 Washington St.

Leslie Epps, the florist behind Finesse, believes that the most beautiful bouquets must be designed with love. Using the freshest flowers possible, she assembles intricate arrangements for birthdays, weddings, funerals, and any occasion in between. You’ll also find easy-to-care-for houseplants like bromeliads, cacti, and pothos—an ideal way to bring nature into your apartment or dormitory.

El Centro Dos
236 Washington St.

This appropriately named outpost of El Centro, a popular South End Mexican eatery, serves authentic regional Mexican cuisine. Chef and owner Allan Rodriguez has handpicked art—including a beautiful portrait of Frieda Kahlo—and furniture from his native Mexico to give this restaurant a homey and authentic atmosphere. It serves chicken in mole sauce, enchiladas, and a variety of tacos and salads, and also has a host of refreshing drinks like watermelon sangria and strawberry margaritas. It’s open for dinner every day, lunch on weekdays, and brunch on the weekend.

The Children’s Book Shop
237 Washington St.

Greater Boston’s oldest independent bookstore, this shop has been delighting young minds since 1977. With more than 28,000 titles available, it offers children’s classics (e.g., Robert McCloskey’s Make Way for Ducklings), the latest in picture and chapter books, and young adult fare. Rows of books, from pop-ups to contemporary novels, classics, and nonfiction, are sorted by age and genre. A section at the front has books autographed by authors who have done readings sponsored by the Children’s Book Shop at the nearby Public Library of Brookline. The knowledgeable staff will help you find just the right gift for any young reader. It has frequently been named best children’s bookshop by Boston magazine. The store also hosts numerous events and programs.

Framers’ Workshop
278 Washington St.

Since 1976, Framers’ Workshop, Boston’s only do-it-yourself frame shop, has provided space and tools for customers to frame their own art. The fee to use one of the six workstations is $3; doing it yourself takes about an hour and can significantly lower the cost of framing a beloved piece of art. The staff is down-to-earth and helpful, offering tips such as: “Metal frames are quicker to assemble than wooden ones,” and “Black aluminum frames are like the milk of grocery stores.” Translation: they’re the cheapest. Be sure to check out the store’s website for special offers. Framers’ Workshop will also do custom orders for you.

Framers’ Workshop 278 Washington St.

Framers’ Workshop, 278 Washington St. Photo by Sarah Silbiger (COM’18)

284 Washington St.

“Nobody knows how great our ingredients are,” says owner Charles Kelsey, who invests in food rather than advertising for his gourmet breakfast and lunch sandwich shop. Kelsey and his wife, Rachel, seek out local, organic ingredients like all-natural, antibiotic-free meats, fresh bread from Iggy’s in Cambridge, and fresh produce from Brookline’s Allandale Farm. Former America’s Test Kitchen editors with degrees from the Culinary Institute of America, the two prepare food on site. Their slow-roasted pork, which takes three days to prepare, is one of the shop’s most popular items. It is used in two sandwiches, pork fennel and pork rabe, sold only on Saturdays. Cutty’s menu caters to carnivores—its best seller is the roast beef 1000—and vegetarians will enjoy the shop’s soups, salads, and eggplant spuckie (an old Boston term meaning sub), with eggplant, hand-pulled mozzarella, and olive-carrot salad on a ciabatta roll. Once a month, on Super Cluckin’ Sunday, the line is out the door with customers yearning for the sole sandwich Cutty’s offers that day: buttermilk fried chicken with sauces, lettuce, and shaved sweet onion on a sesame brioche bun.

Brookline Family Restaurant
305 Washington St.

Serving up traditional Turkish cuisine, cousins Ziya Canca and Ahmet Ozseferoglu offer specialties from their homeland. One popular choice is the Adana kebab (named after the fourth-largest city in Turkey, where it originated), consisting of spicy ground lamb on skewers. Although the halal-certified menu is heavy on meat, vegetarians will enjoy feta cheese pizza, and a variety of cold appetizers and salads. Many dishes are served with pide, a homemade sesame-seeded bread that’s soft on the inside, crunchy on the outside—it’s delicious. With many items premade and showcased at the counter, service is quick.

Village Pizza House
312 Washington St.

Since 1970, the Mallios family has been serving up Greek-style pizza in the heart of Brookline Village. “Ninety-nine point nine percent of my customers are repeats: local residents and Brookline High School teachers and students, including the ones who cut class for a slice,” says owner Ernie Mallios. The restaurant’s artwork is minimal, but what is there represents the Mallios family’s heritage and hobbies. Paintings of Greek buildings hang alongside Ernie’s sons’ fishing trophies, and a 150-gallon fish tank anchors the front counter. Many customers choose to carry out or order online, but there is ample seating inside. Be sure to try one of the specialty pizzas, like the Alfredo pizza with broccoli, grilled chicken, and Alfredo sauce.

320 Washington St.

Wow Barbecue, a food truck serving authentic Chinese barbecue (food on a stick) has now expanded to include two brick-and-mortar restaurants, one in Malden and one in Brookline Village. The restaurants, named Wu-Er by Wow Barbecue, bring Chinese culture and cuisine to the Boston area with a comprehensive menu of traditional Chinese street cuisine. Wu-Er specializes in skewers—meat or vegetables doused in cumin and cooked over a gas grill with volcano rocks to preserve the signature smoky flavor of the cuisine, which traditionally is cooked over a charcoal grill. It offers two dozen specialty skewers, ranging from basics like chicken or beef served with Thai chili, dill yogurt, and carrot hummus to more unique offerings like lamb kidney, squid, quail egg, and chicken gizzards. The menu also includes soups, Asian fusion tapas-style small plates, and entrées, including behemoth “plates for two.”

The Public Library of Brookline

The Public Library of Brookline, 361 Washington St. Photo by Chynna Benson (CGS’18, COM’20)

Public Library of Brookline
361 Washington St.

For more than 150 years, the Public Library of Brookline has served a variety of local residents, including the Kennedy clan, Emmy- and Tony-winning actress Jane Alexander, TV personalities like Conan O’Brien, and sports luminaries like Theo Epstein and Bob Kraft. Besides books, the library offers all of its card-carrying members access to ESL conversation groups; foreign language books, with large collections of Chinese, Russian, and Hebrew texts; and museum passes for reduced admission to cultural institutions like the New England Aquarium, the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, and the Museum of Science. The library hosts story times, puppet shows, and a teen book club, and also provides resources for people with disabilities, seniors, and students. Keeping up with technology, the library loans digital books and audiobooks powered by OverDrive software, so patrons can read or listen on their e-readers and iPads. Titles are available electronically for two weeks, then they vanish; 3D printers are also available.

Off the beaten path

Stops along the Underground Railroad
9 Toxteth St. and 182 Walnut St.

Brookline Village is home to two houses that were stops on the Underground Railroad during the 19th century. A wooden cottage at 9 Toxteth Street was owned from 1845 to 1867 by abolitionist William Ingersoll Bowditch, a Brookline selectman and town moderator. He sheltered fugitive slaves, including Henry “Box” Brown, who shipped himself in a box to gain freedom. The Samuel Philbrick House, at 182 Walnut Street, concealed escaped slaves William and Ellen Craft, who stayed in a back room for days while a US marshal searched for them. Today, the two homes are privately owned and can be viewed only from the street. Discreet plaques identify the Brookline residences as part of the Underground Railroad.

Rifrullo Café
147 Cypress St.

Owner and chef Colleen Marnell-Suhanosky, a James Beard award–winning cookbook author, wants customers to feel at home in her restaurant, and the menu does just that. There are breakfast offerings like a variety of egg dishes, avocado toast, and other innovative dishes geared to health-conscious diners. Lunch items include fresh salads and home-style favorites like grilled cheese. Try the daily soup with an Italian tuna or Cuban-style braised pork sandwich made with bread baked on site. You can grab a seat at the counter or on the hot pink leatherette couch, an heirloom from the owner’s grandparents’ Italian restaurant in Minneapolis.

Rifrullo Café 147 Cypress St.

Rifrullo Café, 147 Cypress St. Photo by Chynna Benson (CGS’18, COM’20)

Shambhala Meditation Center
646 Brookline Ave.

Discovering your own kindness, goodness, strength, and wisdom as a means to moving toward a more harmonious society is the goal of the Shambhala community, and to that end it offers weekend workshops, dharma talks, and meditation in two shrine rooms appointed with comfortable mats and scented with incense. The center welcomes people of all faiths and traditions, with weekly theme nights such as a 30s and Under gathering; the Heart of Recovery, which brings together Buddhist meditation practice and the 12-step model of recovery for people on the path to sobriety; a monthly LGBTQ meditation group; and another for those who self-identify as people of color. All drop-in groups are free, and no preregistration is required—a donation of $5 to $10 is suggested for those who can afford it.

Brookline Reservoir Park
Route 9 between Lee and Warren Streets

Both runners and walkers make use of the one-mile circumference of the Brookline Reservoir Park. The reservoir is also a popular destination for anglers: the Massachusetts Division of Fisheries and Wildlife stocks the manmade body of water annually. Those heading out for a catch need only bring a permit from the Office of the Town Clerk along with their fishing gear. Patches of grass and benches provide resting spots. At the Warren Street entrance sits a controversial landmark, the Brookline Reservoir Gatehouse. Built during World War II, it was designed to keep Boston’s water supply flowing if the main supply was disrupted. Residents and city officials have bickered since the 1980s over whether the expensive relic should be preserved. In 2015, the National Park Service declared the Brookline Reservoir and Gatehouse a National Historic Landmark.

Evelyn Kirrane Aquatic Center
60 Tappan St.

Named for the town’s Recreation Department superintendent from 1972 to 1989, the aquatic center on the Brookline High School campus was the nation’s first indoor public swimming facility. The center has three pools: a shallow one for children and beginners, a lap pool, and a diving area. The last two connect through a sealed tunnel, and swimmers wearing goggles can peer through the lap pool’s underwater window to watch divers on the other side. A major attraction for swimmers with sensitive skin is the pools’ copper ionization filtration system, which lowers the levels of chlorine required. The pools cost $5 a visit for Brookline residents, $7 for nonresidents, but a reduced rate of $3 and $5, respectively, is available for students. Yearly adult and family passes can be purchased. Private and group swimming lessons are available for Brookline residents (prices vary).

Getting there:

By foot, head down Harvard Street from Comm Ave until you cross Washington Street. The 1.5-mile walk takes about 30 minutes. By T, walk to the Fenway stop on Park Drive and take the outbound D trolley two stops to Brookline Village. By bus, hop on the #66 headed down Harvard Street.

This story originally ran July 28, 2009; it has been updated to include new locations and current information.