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Getting to Know Your Neighborhood: Beacon Hill

A step into Boston’s past

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Beacon Hill, situated just north of the Boston Common, is one of the city’s oldest—and most beautiful—neighborhoods. A stroll down any of the narrow gas-lit streets will take you past bow-fronted Federal-style brick row houses that recall the eras when architect Charles Bulfinch, author Louisa May Alcott, and Supreme Court Justice Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr. resided here. More recent residents have included poets Robert Frost and Sylvia Plath, Secretary of State John Kerry (Hon.’05), and actress Uma Thurman.

Once owned by the first European to settle Boston, William Blaxton, the area, then known as Tri-mount or Tremont because of its three peaks, was later sold to the Puritans. The hills’ peaks were shorn off in the early 1800s so an area around them could be turned into buildable land. The neighborhood got its name from the hill that was topped by a beacon, which once alerted Bostonians of danger.

During the 19th century, the area was home to both the richest and the poorest Boston residents. On the south side resided some of the Hub’s most patrician families, the so-called Boston Brahmins, and the less prosperous north slope was home to many African Americans, a center for black and white abolitionists, and an important station on the Underground Railroad.

Today Beacon Hill is one of the city’s most exclusive residential neighborhoods. Pricey, one-of-a-kind boutiques and antique stores line Charles Street, a draw for residents and tourists alike. But the neighborhood also offers some affordable (or free) pleasures. Here are a few.

Boston Common

The Boston Common is the oldest public park in the country. It began as 44 acres held in common by Puritan colonists as grazing land for their livestock. Today, it’s a lovely 50-acre green oasis lined with benches and the site of numerous cultural events. During the summer months, there’s an old-fashioned carousel (rides are $3), and visitors can cool off by dipping their feet in the adjacent Frog Pond, which in winter is transformed into a popular ice-skating area.

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Freedom Trail

Freedom Trail

The 2.5-mile Freedom Trail begins at the Common and leads visitors to 16 historic sites, among them the King’s Chapel, Faneuil Hall, and the Bunker Hill Monument. The trail, marked with a wide red line, winds its way through several neighborhoods, including the North End, the waterfront, and Charlestown. You take a self-guided tour using a downloadable map or smartphone app. Guided Freedom Trail tours meet in front of the Visitor Information Center on the Common. More information about tour options, times, and cost is here.

Boston Athenaeum
10½ Beacon St.

Founded in 1807, the Boston Athenaeum has approximately 600,000 volumes; its holdings include vast collections in areas such as Boston, Massachusetts, and New England history as well as English and American literature. The Athenaeum is furnished with oriental rugs, oil paintings, sculptures, and fresh flower arrangements, making you feel as if you’ve stepped into someone’s stately home. The building’s large Palladian windows overlook the Old Granary Burying Ground, where some of Boston’s most prominent early citizens are interred. The Athenaeum is a members-only library, so visitors are allowed only on the first floor, but you can take a guided art and architecture tour on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 3 p.m. The number of people in a tour is limited, so it’s best to book early. For reservations, call 617-227-0270, ext. 221. The library also offers film screenings, poetry readings, lectures, and musical performances, which are open the general public as well as members.

Marliave
10 Bosworth St.

Billing itself as Boston’s fourth oldest restaurant, Marliave has been serving Beacon Hill residents since 1885, when a Parisian named Henry Marliave arrived in Boston and opened his eponymous eatery. Today, the restaurant features an array of dishes made with local vegetables and fruits and naturally raised animals.  Breads, desserts, sauces, and pastas are all made daily in-house and prepared to order. Marliave features a wonderful, idiosyncratic cocktail list and classic dishes such as beef Wellington (beef tenderloin with wild mushrooms, foie gras, and a red wine sauce served in a pastry crust) and rabbit (prosciutto-wrapped tenderloin, roasted sausage, gorgonzola, and caramelized onion polenta). The eatery is also famous for its raw bar, and diners can order half-price oysters and clams daily from 4 to 6 p.m. and 9 to 10 p.m.

21st Amendment,

21st Amendment, 24 Beacon St.

Scollay Square
21 Beacon St.

Named for the vibrant city square that was razed in the early 1960s to make way for what is now Government Center, this warm, inviting restaurant is popular with State House pols, Beacon Hill residents, and tourists. Scollay Square’s focus is on American comfort food. The seafood dishes, including swordfish medallions, pan-roasted haddock, and pan-seared scallops, draw raves.  The restaurant also offers a popular weekend brunch on Saturdays and Sundays, featuring a “Make Your Own Bloody Mary Bar.” There’s a television in the bar for sports fans, and the restaurant is decorated with old photos of Boston, including images of the now largely forgotten Scollay Square.

Massachusetts State House
24 Beacon St.

The Massachusetts State House sits at the top of Beacon Hill on land that was once John Hancock’s cow pasture. The main wing, designed by Charles Bulfinch and completed in 1798, is topped by a dome gilded in 23-karat gold, and adorned with a wooden pinecone, recalling the influential role that the timber industry played in 18th century Massachusetts. The dome was originally made of wood shingles, but was later gilded in copper by Paul Revere; the gold was added later to help prevent leaks. During World War II, the dome was painted a dark color so it wouldn’t reflect light during blackouts. The State House is home to the State Legislature and the Massachusetts’ Governor’s office. Free tours are offered weekdays from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.  In the House of Representatives’ chambers, visitors can see a large wooden codfish called the Sacred Cod—a testament to the crucial role that the fishing industry has played in the Massachusetts economy.

21st Amendment
150 Bowdoin St.

This pub, located in the shadow of the State House, was originally built in 1899 as a luxury hotel featuring a rooftop garden and Boston’s first “passenger lift.” The hotel later became a men-only club favored by many of the city’s most prominent politicians and lobbyists. Rumor has it that President John F. Kennedy wrote his speeches by the fireplace while serving as a member of the Massachusetts legislature from 1947 to 1952. Serving burgers, sandwiches, and soups, as well as less traditional pub food, 21st Amendment is still popular with politicos, lobbyists, and local media, but it also attracts tourists and Beacon Hill residents. The pub’s name refers to the constitutional amendment that repealed Prohibition.

Tip Tap Room
138 Cambridge St.

Just as its name suggests, this open-air (weather permitting) restaurant, which opened in 2012, offers a variety of tips and taps. Tips range from turkey in a sage-peppercorn marinade to lamb in a mint and shallot sauce, and there are 36 drafts on tap as well. Where the Tip Tap Room’s menu truly shines, however, is in its wild game selection: there’s elk, yak, ostrich, and kangaroo—to name just a few. To view the daily wild game specials, check out its Facebook page. Past specials: antelope with watermelon mint salsa and Allagash Blonde Ale–roasted rabbit saddle with cilantro and scallions.

Blackstone's

Blackstone’s of Beacon Hill, 46 Charles St.

The Paramount
44 Charles St.

The Paramount is an affordable eatery known mainly for its breakfasts: a line forms almost immediately on weekend mornings. Grab a tray and wait in line for the restaurant’s Spanish omelette or famous pancakes. By night it is transformed into a more elegant venue, with white tablecloths and table service. Try the popular pan-roasted teriyaki glazed salmon for dinner.

Blackstone’s of Beacon Hill
46 Charles St.

This sunny gift shop is a great place to buy a birthday present for that difficult-to-shop-for someone. The store offers  an array of housewarming gifts, collectibles, and knickknacks sure to spruce up any mantle. Many of its items have a Boston theme, such as Robert McCloskey’s book Make Way for Ducklings and related merchandise. Blackstone’s celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2012, and keeps things interesting for its customers with book signings and other special events.

Toscano
47 Charles St.

This Tuscan eatery will make you feel like you’re dining in Florence. Happily, you don’t need a passport or airfare to sample such traditional fare as vitella Milanese (sautéed breaded veal scallopine) and scottadito di agnello (rack of lamb). Toscano is a bit on the pricey side, but it’s worth the splurge. The restaurant boasts a wine list featuring more than 100 wines from Tuscany alone. Their handmade pastas, local and imported cheeses, and homemade sausages draw diners back again and again. The friendly staff makes everyone feel like members of the family.

Beacon Hill Chocolates,

Beacon Hill Chocolates, 91 Charles St.

Wish Boutique
49 Charles St.

This women’s boutique features an assortment of classic and chic apparel for everyday wear and for more memorable occasions, as well as an extensive array of accessories and jewelry. Wish carries local jewelry and handbag designers as well as popular contemporary apparel brands, including Joie, Calypso, AG Jeans, Alice + Olivia, and Trina Turk.

Twentieth Century Limited
73 Charles St.

Twentieth Century Limited has everything you need to look fabulous if you’re having tea with royalty. The shop’s sparkling tiaras, necklaces, rings, and brooches make a great addition to any costume jewelry collection. The store also sells vintage bags, gloves and hats, as well as antique black-and-white photos from bygone weddings and parties.

Beacon Hill Chocolates
91 Charles St.

This sweet shop is a chocolate lover’s paradise. Owner Paula Barth imports the best artisan chocolates from all over New England and around the world, meaning that each truffle is a handcrafted, melt-in-your-mouth delight. Look for classic confections like Irish crème and chocolate-covered cherries, as well as more exotic sweets such as the caramel sushi (caramel and marshmallow swirled together and dipped in dark chocolate), cappuccino cup (a dark chocolate cup filled with pure Arabica coffee ganache and finished with white chocolate hazelnut foam) and a margarita delight (a bittersweet shell with a tequila lime white chocolate filling, garnished with sea salt and lime). Seasonal flavors are also available.

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Good, 88 Charles St.

Black Ink
101 Charles St.

When owners Susan and Timothy Corcoran first opened Black Ink, it was a stationery store. Over the past 20 years it has evolved into an eclectic gift shop, selling “unexpected necessities.” But don’t expect knickknacks—everything in the store has a purpose, albeit not always readily apparent (needle threader, anyone?). You can pick up a doorstop shaped like Swiss cheese or an authentic plastic cafeteria tray with matching cup. Make sure to budget a lot of time for this place, as it’s impossible to see everything at first glance.

Good
88 Charles St.

Billing itself as a “jewelry, accessories, and home design” store, Good offers a painstakingly curated collection of products. You won’t find any novelty items or brand names here, but you may find beautiful handwoven silk scarfs, handmade brass earrings, or vintage cuff links and pottery. Things are on the pricey side, but definitely worth it if you value attention to detail and craftsmanship.

Panificio
144 Charles St.

Known for its weekend brunch, Panificio serves a range of breakfast items, from French toast made with homemade apple cinnamon raisin bread to frittatas, open-faced omelets with sautéed vegetables and mozzarella. It’s the perfect place for an affordable lunch—the Cubano sandwich with roasted pork, smoked ham, pickles, Swiss cheese, and horseradish Dijon is delicious—or dinner—the gnocchi Bolognese is excellent. At any time of the day, the square pizza is a great snack, as are the numerous pastries.

Nichols House Museum,

Nichols House Museum, 55 Mt. Vernon St.

Nichols House Museum
55 Mt. Vernon St.

To see what a Beacon Hill home looked like in the 19th century, visit the Nichols House Museum. The residence was constructed in 1804, making it one of the earliest buildings on Beacon Hill. It was designed by Massachusetts State House architect Charles Bulfinch, who also designed many other Beacon Hill mansions. The museum’s hours are 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, from April 1 to October 31, and Thursday through Saturday from November 1 to March 31.  Tours are given every half hour starting at 11 a.m.

Lala Rokh
97 Mt. Vernon St.

The Persian restaurant Lala Rokh takes its name from the romance novel by the 19th-century writer Thomas Moore. The restaurant is decorated with the owners’ personal collection of antique Persian miniatures, tapestries, and 16th-century European maps, which line the walls. The owners are originally from Northwest Iran, but the restaurant offers Persian dishes from numerous regions, each accented with different spices. Try the morgh, saffron-seared chicken in a tomato broth served with basmati rice and flavored with cumin, cinnamon, rose petals, and barberries.

Museum of African American History
46 Joy St.

In the decades before the Civil War, the largest population of African Americans in Boston lived on Beacon Hill’s north slope. The Museum of African American History (MAAH) commemorates the men and women who fought for the abolition of slavery, while establishing schools, churches, and businesses on the hill. In 1783, Massachusetts banned slavery, and the free black population continued to spread throughout the city. The MAAH is New England’s largest museum dedicated to preserving the contributions of the region’s African Americans. It is located in the Abiel Smith School, the nation’s first building constructed specifically to house a black public school. The museum also operates the adjacent African Meeting House, the country’s oldest surviving black church built by African Americans. The Black Heritage Trail walking tour is led by U.S. Park Service rangers and takes visitors to eight sites on Beacon Hill, starting with the 54th Massachusetts Volunteer Infantry Regiment Memorial in front of the State House, which honors one of the first official black army units in the United States during the Civil War.

Lala Rokh, 97 Mt. Vernon St.

Lala Rokh, 97 Mt. Vernon St.

Rouvalis Flowers
40 West Cedar St.

This enchanting florist on the corner of West Cedar and Pinckney Streets is impossible to resist. The displays of garden ornaments and fresh flowers change weekly, and the rustic aesthetic is comfortably at home among Beacon Hill’s cobblestone streets. The store, built in 1897, was originally a butcher shop and still retains all of the original interior elements, including a meat refrigerator that now serves as a cooler for flowers. You can find the perfect gift for any gardener or interior design enthusiast, but be sure to pick up a bouquet for yourself as well.

75 Chestnut
75 Chestnut St.

Tucked away off the beaten path of Charles Street, 75 Chestnut offers upscale pub and seafood fare. The interior is a comfortable but stately mélange of mahogany and low lamps, with a fully stocked bar and a midsize dining area. It’s not cheap, but this is where to go for the most authentic New England cooking—try the classic herbed clam chowder or the Nantucket seafood stew, with gulf shrimp, scallops, hand-cut salmon, halibut, sea bass, vegetables, and potatoes.

Louisburg Square

This historic square, with its gas streetlamps and cobblestone streets, is actually a small private park surrounded by the most elegant townhouses in Boston. Look for 19 Louisburg Square, once an Episcopal convent, now home to Secretary of State John Kerry, and 10 Louisburg Square, where Louisa May Alcott resided until her death from mercury poisoning in 1888.

Gardens of Beacon Hill

In the 1920s, the Beacon Hill Civic Association encouraged the greening of the neighborhood and residents began to transform their service yards into gardens. Once a year, on the third Thursday in May, visitors can tour several of these hidden gardens. Visit the Beacon Hill Garden Club for more details.

Getting there: By public transportation, take the MBTA Green Line inbound to Park Street and walk through the Boston Common towards the State House, or take the Red Line to the Charles/MGH stop.


Click on the points in the map above for more information on the places listed in our guide to Beacon Hill.

Check out our Beacon Hill list on Foursquare for more neighborhood tips. Explore other area neighborhoods here.

This story originally ran May 20, 2008; it has been recently updated to include new locations and current information.

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