Ashley Mears

Ashley Mears

Ashley Mears

Assistant Professor

PhD, New York University (2009)

Sociology 265 | 617.358.0637 | mears@bu.edu

Curriculum Vitae

People at BU webpage

BIO AND RESEARCH

I study the intersections of culture and markets.  After receiving my B.A. in sociology from the University of Georgia in 2002, I went to graduate school at New York University for my Ph.D. in sociology and graduated in 2009.  In my teaching and research, I explore generally how people assign value to things, and I focus on how gender, race, and class inequalities inform the production and change of culture.

My first book, Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model, examines the production of value in fashion modeling markets. Through ethnography and interviews, I traced the backstage work and collaboration behind the fashion “look” in modeling markets in New York and London. I discovered an organized production process that goes into producing something most people take for granted as a natural state: beauty. These production processes are structured along racial and gendered lines, such that markets in cultural production like fashion ultimately become sites for the reproduction of cultural inequalities.

Building from this work, I have been researching the global context of culture and beauty, based on the case of the global fashion model scouting industry.  As global gatekeepers, model scouts play a crucial role in identifying and promoting ideas of beauty around the world.

Currently I’m working on a book project that examines how women produce status distinctions for men in the global VIP leisure and party scene.  Based on multi-sited ethnographic observations over 18-months from New York to the French Riviera, I use the global circuit of VIP leisure scenes as a case to examine the values, roles, and repertoires of symbols that this segment of the elite uses to signal status to each other.  This research fills gaps in knowledge on contemporary elites with rare ethnographic insights to analyze culture and stratification dynamics among the global “one percent,” and shows the uses of women’s bodies in men’s mobility projects to climb up elite hierarchies.

SELECT PUBLICATIONS

2012  Noah McClain and Ashley Mears.  “Free to Those Who Can Afford It: The Everyday Affordance of Privilege.”  Poetics: Journal of Empirical Research in Culture, the Media, and the Arts 40(2): 133-149.

Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model (2011). Berkeley: University of California Press.

2010 “Size Zero High-End Ethnic: Cultural Production and the Reproduction of Culture in Fashion Modeling” Poetics 38: 21-46.

2009 with Frèderic C. Godart. “How Do Cultural Producers Make Creative Decisions: Lessons from the Catwalk.” Social Forces 88(2): 671-692.

2008. “Discipline of the Catwalk: Gender, Power and Uncertainty in Fashion Modeling.” Ethnography 9(4): 429-456.