Theory and modeling of coastal hazards

by Dr Philip Liu

School of Civil and Environment Engineering, Cornell University


(1) Tsunamis—Generation mechanisms

  • Including earthquake and landslide sources,
  • Open ocean propagation,
  • Interactions with bathymetry and scattering
  • Edge waves and shelf-trapped waves,
  • Inundation and run-up.

(2) Derivation of wave theory

  • Review of linear waves; various derivations and relevant as- sumptions of nonlinear
  • Shallow Water and Boussinesq-type models
  • Properties of dispersive models
  • Applicability ranges of the different equation models

(3) Nearshore wave dynamics

  • Wave breaking
  • Turbulence modeling
  • Free surface tracking schemes
  • Wave-structure interaction
  • Review of sediment transport modeling approaches