Nina Chan

Finally, a return to the computer and my journaled thoughts. Journey to the coast made me want to document this in novel form – perhaps as a series of short stories. The grilled cheese story of Ellen’s is definitely worth it. It seems Ellen herself has quite a few stories to tell. Meanwhile, the Galapagos was an amazing experience in itself. It was kind of a mix between really pristine and really touristy, and that was a strange combination. I was surprised at how small some of the islands were – you could see across the whole island just standing on one end. The animals are also very tame – although it is illegal to touch them, they are more than allowed to come up and touch you, which some of them do. We got to snorkel with sea lions – they’re really playful and will come right up to you, sometimes even bite your flippers. We also swam with sea turtles and penguins, which was amazing, and I saw this giant manta ray. Keith got to see a shark while snorkeling – we did see a few from the boats. Then again, Keith is slightly more adventurous – he did end up stepping on a sea urchin as well as almost getting trapped in a water-filled lava tunnel or something. And as much as I enjoyed the Galapagos, I am glad to back in Quito when normalcy at its best can resume. I can only hope that tonight I don’t rock myself off the bed on either side.

Lindsay Galbraith

Hey everyone,
 
Today we learned a little bit about Ecuadorian names and I wanted to share the interesting parts before I forgot them... Apparently, maybe a decade ago, the Ecuadorian government had to pass a law regarding naming of children, so that people could only use names from a government-released list. (You might think this is a little repressive, but keep reading.) Today I heard of people named Dos a Uno (2-to-1...the score of a soccer game); a woman, I repeat, a WOMAN named Hitler; another woman named Stalin, Johnny Rojos and Johnny Negros (after Johnny Walker whiskey).  When people get this liberal naming their children, I don't have a problem with the government stepping in, for the sake of the poor kids. 
 
Also, the reason why many spanish people have two last names is because they are so pretentious (my teacher actually used that word) that they want to show their relation, if possible, to royal families. And they will often add on more names if that helps their case.  Why they often use 2 first names as well, no one really knows. But I think about half of the women here are María insert-second-hispanic-name-here. It's even possible for a girl to be María Jose and a guy to be Jose María. They really like their Catholicism down here I guess. (That is actually very true. I have a rosary made of giant nuts hanging over my bed and many bedrooms have giant paintings or pictures of the Virgin Mary hanging above or by the beds.)
 
Another interesting tidbit on hispanic names. You know all those last names that end in "-ez" (Perez, Gonzalez, Martinez, Lopez, etc)? Well that "-ez" is their equivalent of "son". For example, Martinez is essentially "son of Martin", Perez is "son of Pedro"; Gonzalez is "son of Gonzálo", and I have no clue what first name Lopez came from.  The names are also supposed to be accented on the second-to-last syllable, so that the "-ez" is more of an afterthought, just like Johnson, Thompson, Peterson, etc. Pretty interesting, huh? (Bet you never though that you'd learn so much without ever leaving the comfort of your computer chair.)
 
Anyway, I've been very very busy south of the equator. In only three days last weekend I went to the highest active volcano in the world, toured a crater lake over a different active volcano, soaked in some hot springs on the western side of the Andes, went to an Indian market, toured a cloud forest, saw more cows than I've ever seen before, and saw a horse parked between a bunch of cars in the parking lot outside a strip mall. (I also probably spent 6 hours each day in a bus, but it was our own private "gringo" bus and it was worth it.)
 
In other exciting news, I've successfully learned a couple Ecuadorian card games. (My family plays all the time, which is awesome.) I know how to use the Quito bus system. And today I figured out how to get a free bus ride, legally. I usually spend $1 a day to get to and from the university. It's $0.25 a bus.
 
Other interesting factoids...
- There are lots of children in downtown Quito that sell things - bracelets, shoe shines, even these weird bunches of giant crayons (I haven't quite figured out why anyone would want them, but they are only $1).  They're actually really annoying and often won't leave you alone. But the sad part is that many of them won't go home at night if they haven't sold everything because their parents will be very angry and possibly violent.
- You can buy chicken heads and feet in the supermarket. (I'm taking orders if anyone wants one.)
- Most of the movies on television are in english with spanish subtitles. (This means that I can watch a movie with my family and we can all enjoy and understand it.)
- Quito, in my opinion, has more smog than Los Angeles, it's just in a bigger valley so it doesn't collect as much. This makes walking actually less healthy than taking a bus.
 
Anyway, that's all for this update. I'm going to the cloud forest this Friday through Sunday. And next weekend we go to the coast for 10 days, from Sept.16-26, so don't be expecting any exciting updates or emails while I'm gone. I'm pretty sure I won't be touching a computer. After the coast, we're back for a week, and then we go to the Galapagos!! I'll be there from Oct 2-9.
 
Ciao,
Lindsay
 
p.s. No one here actually says adios.
 
today's Spanish...let's catch up on some basics...
 
la cuchilla = knife
la cuchara = spoon
el tenedor = fork
el vaso = glass
la servilleta = napkin
el plato = plate (in case you forget)
cuy = guinea pig (which they eat often here, although I haven't tried it yet)
la olla = sink
el horneo = oven
el durazno = peach
la ficha = chip (like a poker chip)
mezclar = to mix, stir
la laptop = laptop
el e-mail = you guessed it, e-mail
leer = to read
escribir = to write
el espejo = mirror
la manta = blanket
los pantalones = pants
los zapatos = shoes
el pie = foot
el dedo = finger
el estomago and la barriga = stomach
la garganta = throat
la mente = mind
la cabeza = head
...and now for the one everyone knows...loco = crazy
 
Sorry for the long list. One other thing that's really funny is that when people get anxious or want something to happen, they shake their hand and "slap" their index finger against their hand. This was a skill that many boys in my middle school honed, but I was never able to do. Almost everyone here does it. In terms of context, I was playing cards with my host-mother and her mother last night. The grandmother wanted to draw a good card and so she did that before picking a card. Scientifically, it doesn't increase your chances of good luck in card-drawing, but you get the point.

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Lindsay Galbraith

Hey everyone,
 
It's hard to believe that I got here just about a week ago. I've done so much in that week that it feels like I've been here for a month.

A little bit about the country itself... Ecuador is appropriately named, as the equator runs right through it. It's located in northwestern South America, and is about the size of Colorado. The country is a democratic republic with a population of 13.2 million people. Quito, the capital city (where I will be spending 2+ months), has a population of 1.2 million. Quito is at an elevation of about 9300 feet (2835 m). Its coordinates: 0 degrees, 14' S, 78 degrees, 30' W. It's time zone is CST (an hour behind most of you). Ecuador's official currency is the US dollar (isn't that easy?). Spanish is the official language, but some people speak English, and there are a bunch of indigenous languages spoken throughout the country. Ecuador is one of the most biologically diverse countries in the world, as it is home to part of the world's largest rainforest, the Amazon, and owns the famous Galapagos Islands, 1000 km off the coast.

Let's see...Last week my host-dad Julio took me to downtown Old Quito one night. We saw the churches and the basilica all lit up at night. That part of the city is totally different at night than during the day. Afterwards, we had some kind of hot Ecuadorian drink in the plaza next to the church of San Francisco. And we had a light dinner in another small cafe.
 
I had a tour of Quito on Saturday with all the people in my program. We went in a tour bus and saw:
- a military museum, with a tour in spanish (mind you, I understood about 5% of it...I caught a few words...gun, battle, soldier...that's about all you need to know about wars, right?)
- the Virgen of Panecillo - a HUGE, unattractive statue of the Virgin Mary at the top of a hill in the city
- the church of San Francisco and the religious museum there (another tour in spanish...)
- a quick look at the basicila, whose gargoyles are not monsters, but rather endemic animals of Ecuador

Yesterday, five of us went to Pasochoa, a mountain slash nature reserve. We it took us about an hour to get there from southern Quito, the last 15 minutes of which were spent in the back of a pick-up truck. The pick-up truck ride was a little bumpy, but the views were amazing! (And it only cost $6 there and $6 back - for a 15 minute ride! Also of note was the $0.43 bus ride from Quito to the town where we hitched the ride. I mean really, 43 cents? They didn't want to round at all?) I think Pasochoa is the highest elevation I've ever been to. We ended up hiking up to around 3300 m (about 10,000 feet), which is pretty incredible considering we're not even adjusted to living at 2800 m. The hike was so hard and we had to keep stopping every 5 or 10 minutes because it was pretty steep in a lot of places, but we made it. (My red blood cell count must have doubled yesterday.) None of us were in bad shape to begin with, but the altitude has such a huge impact. We were! all, justifiably, very proud of ourselves. The countryside was absolutely gorgeous and green. We were hoping to see a lot of birds (there are supposedly 123 species of hummingbirds in the park), but we saw about 3 total. I was so tired when I got home!!
 
Random notes - The pizza here is served with kernels of corn under the cheese. My family knows how to play hearts. People here drink hot chocolate with cheese - ick! My host brother loves Disney movies. My host mother has a Cat Stevens CD and sings along with it. People park their cars on the streets during the day, but put their cars in gated driveways in front of their houses before it gets dark.
 
That's about all for now. I need to eat lunch and go to my spanish class.
 
Take care,
Lindsay

 

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Nina Chan
 

Yesterday did not journal, came home and was tired and decided to go to bed instead – it was early too, like 11. But yesterday was our Tour de Quito, starting early – as in 9AM early, meeting in front of the house of Maria Antoinette. The tour took us first to the top of a great big hill to visit a military museum celebrating the independence of Ecuador under the guidance of Mariscal Sucre. I won’t go into length about the museum details, but there was also a map and a miniature that documented the battles of Sucre for Independence, which gives significance (finally!) to the dates of 6 de Deciembre and 24 de Mayo (and some others that I can’t remember). These were battle dates, I think the one in May might be the final independence battle, but I could easily be wrong. Before entering the museum we spent a long time out in front of it; there was a grand view of Quito from that height where we could easily see many landmarks like the Basilica and the Virgin. The city is large and incredibly dense both with houses and with people; we could see them wandering the street which we later found out was La Plaza Grande (or La Plaza de Independencia). We were at the museum for about an hour and a half, maybe two – was about 11:30 or so when we wandered back into the bus to go down the mountain on those narrow, steep streets.


We headed over to see La Virgin de Panecillo next, which is statuesquely impressive. Its gargantuan size made it almost impossible to take pictures of in the radius of the Panecillo area. Some people went up into the Virgin to see the view of the city but I just wandered around outside and got some pictures. From what I heard (from students on our trip) the same person that made/designed(?) the Virgin de Panecillo also made/designed the Statue of Liberty. (I suppose large women really are his specialty – it was further rumored that the Virgin was the face of his wife and the body of his mistress – or was that the statue?) We spent about 15 minutes there, which was enough time for Crista to buy three necklaces at one of the market stands lining the road. Wait till Otavalo, we keep saying.


It was about 12 when we headed down to the Independence Plaza for sightseeing and lunch. The Plaza is a large square that reminds me a lot of Italy, although it’s similiarities only lie in the fact that they’re both square plazas with fountains in the middle and buildings with balcony type windows lining the sides. The plaza was built again to celebrate the independence of the people from the Spanish conquistadors. It now houses the governmental powers of Quito as well as a church. The city was originally conceptualized with the square as the center of everything, so when Quito was newly beginning (and significantly smaller) the buildings surrounded the plaza. We had lunch in a fancy restaurant right outside the immediate square. The food was fantastic, we were allowed to choose two dishes from either appetizer, main dish, and dessert. I went with the empanadas de moroda (meat?) and a plate of aguacate con camarones (avocados stuffed with shrimp). I ordered a chicha(?) to drink – it’s a drink made out of corn that has a very sweet flavor. Stephanie said that its often sold as chicha morada and is purple with a slight grape flavor.


We returned to the bus to head over to this other church (iglesia de San Francisco?). It was an absolutely gorgeous church – plated in gold everywhere because the Incas were obsessed with the sun. There were large paintings (of course all religious art) and statues everywhere of Jesus suffering, the apostles, and the virgin Mary and other significant religious figures. The church was very baroque (ornate to a ridiculous degree) and/or rococo (every inch was covered with mirrors or gold). It must have been brilliant when the sun actually came into the cathedral, which it can’t now because the roof is blocked. The museum adjacent to the church was intense – heavy on the bloody Jesus and bloody Franciscan monk. There was an amazing room though where all the artwork was done on slabs of alabaster – amazing. In the courtyard we took a picture by the fountain, and then Rachel and Ellen spotted a caged bird (it was small and green – parakeet?) and we all took turns holding it and taking pictures with it. It actually pooped on Lindsey.

Afterwards, we headed over to the Basilica for a quick look around – the church has gargoyles, but not in the traditional sense – the statues are instead of animals endemic here in Ecuador, like anteaters, lizards, and tortoises. We didn’t get to go into La Basilica, but its gorgeous – Ariadna said that her cousin got married there, and that there is a nice view if you go up into the tower. Apparently it’s even more beautiful at night – it is lit up and blue. That was the end of our tour – regrese a la casa de Maria Antoinette where we waited to be picked up (recoger). When we returned home (Ariadna and Bruno came with to pick me up, I think they just went shopping for new shoes) Alexia had made dinner and she went to play cards. Ariadna and Bruno and I had dinner a little later – Renata was at her aunt’s house. We had this thing that was similar to meat loaf (with no meat – it was made out of bananas (green) and other things like peppers) and then rice and crumbled meat (yum). We also had a yogurt/jello dessert and green grape diet juice. We were going to go to the movies to see the Pacifier (with Vin Deisel) but when we arrived (via taxi) we found out that all the movies were in Spanish with no subtitles for me (dang it – wish my spanish was better). So we wandered around the mall shopping a bit for things I needed – bought a movistar phone finally – and some sunglasses as well (phone cost me $30 and came with $6 talking time and 200 text messages, sunglasses cost $18. Did you know it only costs $4 to go to a movie?). We still haven’t managed to find a water bottle and now I’m really starting to regret not bringing a Nalgene from home.

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