Travel in the Middle East

JORDAN

Jordan has many interesting archaeological sites. Take advantage of your stay to see as many sites as possible.

• Petra, the Rose-Red City of the Nabataeans (featured in Indiana Jones movie, The Last Crusade), where important mosaics and scrolls were found.

• Jerash, one of the more intact Roman cities

• Mabada, site of the greatest concentration of mosaics yet found in Jordan

• The Desert Castles, most built during the brief Ummayad Califate

• Um al Jamal, a prosperous town during the Nabataean, Roman and Byzantine era, where even ordinary houses were built of stone (basalt)

• Um Qais, a major city of the Hellenistic and Roman eras with a spectacular view of the Golan Heights.

• The Dead Sea

Most sites are accessable with a car and nearly all are possible with a 4 wheel drive vehicle. If you are not renting a car, coach tours can be arranged at any of the major hotel travel agents. Or you may wish to form a group to rent a vehicle. The Friends of Archaeology group (in Amman) sponsors one or two day trips a month, usually to more obscure sites, led by archeologists who have been working the sites.

See the Library Bibliography page for a list of Travel and Tour Guides.

TRAVEL TO ISRAEL, THE WEST BANK, AND SYRIA

Border crossing rules are always in a state of flux. The information that follows is as valid as possible, at this time.

Syria: For US passport holders, if you did not obtain a Syrian visa in the US, you will probably not be able to get one in Amman or at the border. If your passport contains any hint that you have been to Israel (including the lack of an entry stamp at an appropriate place like Queen Alia International Airport), you will be denied entrance to Syria. If you plan to visit both Syria and Israel, visit Syria first. If you have a U.S. passport, it may be advisable to get a second U.S. passport immediately after you arrive in Jordan. The new passport is used for travel to Israel. Check with the office regardin procedures. The same may apply for visits to Lebanon although this is not yet clear. Visas for Lebanon may be obtained in Amman.

The Syrian border crossing is open 24 hours a day. JETT runs buses at 07:00 and 15:00 from their Abdali station for JD 4.500. Allow 4 hours or so for crossing. Servees (arrange through major hotel travel agents) cost about JD 6 and are faster because processing time at the border is less. There is one train a week that takes at least 8 hours each way. Jordanian rental cars can be taken across, but special paperwork is required - inform the rental agent in advance of this requirement.

Israel and PNA: There are three border crossings, in the north the Sheikh Hussein Bridge (near North Shuna), in the middle the King Hussein/Allenby bridge, and in the south the Aqaba-Eilat crossing. One simply appears now at the crossing and is processed by Jordanian and Israeli immigration authorities. In the north and south, points that are considered true border crossings, passports will be stamped by both authorities. Both sides charge exit tax (JD 7 and NIS 95 - about $10 and $35 - respectively).

Crossing via the King Hussein/Allenby requires three steps. To the bridge you can take a JETT bus at 06:30 from Abdali and major hotels (JD 6), a taxi (about JD 10 - negotiate before starting) or a servees (JD 2 or 3). You then pay JD 1.500 (unless you came by JETT) to take a JETT shuttle across the border. On the other side, the standard servees fare to Jerusalem (Damascus Gate) is NIS 26 (about $8).

If you ask, you may get through the King Hussein/Allenby crossing without your passport being stamped. However, don't count on it. Jordanian visas are NOT issued at the King Hussein crossing - you must have a visa in advance.

The King Hussein/Allenby bridge (south of Amman, near the Dead Sea)is open 7:30 - 23:00 Sunday through Thursday, and 07:30 - 14:00 Friday and Saturday. There are other times when it is closed according to the Israeli calendar of holidays, and sometimes arbitrarily and at very short notice. It is advisable to check one day before leaving and returning.

The Sheik Hussein bridge (north of Amman toward Um Qais) is open 06:30 - 22:00 Sunday through Thursday, and 08:00 - 20:00 Friday and Saturday. Sunday through Thursday bus service between Amman and Tel Aviv via the north crossing takes about 6 hours. Departures at 07:00 and 14:30 from the Passenger Transportation Center in north Amman, fare about $30 each way.

The Aqaba-Eilat crossing has about the same hours as the north crossing. The only organized public transportation is a bus between Eilat and Aqaba.

Jordan rental cars may NOT be taken into Israel or the PNA.

There is air service between Marka and QAI airports and Tel Aviv/Ben Gurion, by Royal Wings and El Al. Royal Wings (book through RJ, 678-321) flies daily except Monday and Saturday at 17:15 from Marka. Standard fare is JD 52 each way, with a slight reduction for a one month excursion ticket. El Al (Five Continents Travel near the Ambassador Hotel in Shmeisani [14 on Shmeisani map], 702-526) flies on about the same evening schedule at the same standard fares.

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Last modified: March 15, 2000